- The Washington Times - Monday, March 14, 2005

Can Feixes, Blanc Seleccio, Penedes, 2003, $14

Tasting uncannily like premier cru French Chablis, this white blend from Penedes in Spanish Catalonia is a delicious discovery. It displays clean, precise citrus (lemon and lime) aromas, followed by fresh fruit flavors enhanced by a stony, mineral-tinged undertone. The result is a wine of uncommon complexity and sophistication.

The Can Feixes estate consists of more than 400 acres of gravelly mountainside terrain that has been planted to both indigenous grapes and imported varieties. This wine is a blend of paralleda and macebo, two locals, and chardonnay. The whole, surely, is superior to the sum of its parts.

Light-bodied but full of flavor, this is an ideal wine to pair with shellfish or delicate whitefish such as flounder or sole.

Although the 2004 vintage is due to arrive soon, the 2003 shows no signs of becoming wan or tired and, in fact, may well have become more nuanced with time in bottle. It certainly should drink well all through the spring and summer. (Imported by Classical Wines of Spain.)

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