- The Washington Times - Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Malagousia, Regional Wine of Epanomi, 2005, $18

In today’s increasingly internationalized world of wine, where vintners in seemingly every region in every country produce oceans of cabernet, chardonnay, syrah and the like, it can be great fun to try more obscure wines, those made from grapes that grow only in selected locales.

Here’s just such a find. Crisp and fresh, with a bouquet redolent of limes and other citrus fruits, it comes from the Macedonia area of northern Greece, and is a great summer white.

Grapes have been cultivated and wine made in Greece for thousands of years, but modern wine — meaning wine that tastes fresh and clean, without oxidation — is a relatively recent development.

Evanghelos Gerovassiliou, who studied in Bordeaux with the famed French professor Emile Peynaud, is one of the leaders of the Greek wine renaissance. He makes wine from international grapes, but he also uses local, indigenous ones. Of these, his malagousia stands out as a something definitely worth trying.

The Gerovassiliou vineyards are near Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city. They benefit from a maritime influence, so despite hot summer temperatures, the whites taste bright and refreshing. This particular wine is medium-bodied and will pair well with all sorts of seafood. Grilled calamari would be a good choice if you were dining in Thessaloniki. Here near the Chesapeake, crab cakes will do just fine. (Imported by Sotiris Bafitis Selections.)

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