La Crema, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2004, $23
The demand for American pinot noir has skyrocketed during the past few years, and vintners are scrambling to meet it. New vintages are being rushed to store shelves, as producers with little or no track record with this finicky grape variety join the pinot parade. Perhaps not surprisingly, a great deal of the wines now on sale taste disappointing. They’re coarse rather than supple, cumbersome rather than smooth. Far too often, they don’t really taste like pinot noir.
If you want good pinot for tomorrow’s Thanksgiving feast, look for a producer with a trusted track record, and try not to buy wine from the 2005 vintage. There’s nothing wrong with that year, but this varietal needs more than 12 months since the harvest to begin to develop subtleties and nuances.
La Crema has been producing California pinot noir for over 25 years, and quality has been consistently high for well over a decade. The winery makes a number of different cuvees from various vineyard sites, with the Sonoma Coast bottling again and again offering excellent value. This 2004, although still young, tastes of ripe cherry fruit, with a spicy, almost earthy undertone, and a long, satisfying finish. It will be great with turkey.
Please read our comment policy before commenting.