- The Washington Times - Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Bollini, Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2005, $15

As the weather warms up and the daylight lengthens, light-bodied, refreshing white wines become ever more popular. In this category, none proves more popular these days than northern Italian pinot grigio.

When well-made, wines from this grape display bright citrus flavors supported by nutty undertones. They taste sleek and vibrant.

Sadly, many pinot grigios do nothing of the sort. Because many vintners harvest too many grapes, these wines taste either thin and acidic or vapid because they’re watery. They lack the vigor that characterizes pinot grigio when yields are kept low and the wine is thought of as something more than a cash cow.

Though pinot grigio as a general category remains fashionable, consumers need to shop carefully.

The Bollini winery’s Trentino offering is a fine example of how good northern Italian pinot grigio should taste. It has fresh lemon fruit flavors buttressed by nutty, faintly herbal secondary notes.

The 2005 vintage, still for sale most places, has added a bit of weight over the past year and will pair nicely with even rich seafood dishes. The 2006, due to arrive soon, promises to be lighter and even fresher.

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