- The Washington Times - Tuesday, March 27, 2007

S.A. Prum, Riesling “Essence,” Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2005, $11

German Riesling, long out of fashion with American wine drinkers, is enjoying something of a renaissance here in the U.S. Though nowhere as popular as chardonnay or even sauvignon blanc, this classic wine is attracting new fans in large measure because it tastes so unlike those varieties.

Naturally low in alcohol, and marked by fruit rather than wood flavors, good German Riesling can be a delight.

The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region produces some of the lightest, most delightful Rieslings in Germany. Some wines, made with grapes harvested late in the growing season, taste sweet.

Others, however, offer an initial impression of sugar but finish dry, their crisp acidity providing harmonious balance. S.A. Prum’s “Essence” does just that. An excellent value, it provides a delectable introduction to Riesling’s many charms.

Riesling made in this mostly dry style can be delicious on its own, but it also pairs very well with food.

Try it with lighter fish or poultry dishes, particularly those with a spicy kick. Its forward peach and citrus flavors and steely finish will complement Thai or other Asian preparations especially well.

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