Make-ahead cauliflower and cheese

As the weather heats up, we want to spend less time in our kitchens at peak hours, but we still want to eat well. We need a selection of recipes that can be made ahead, so we can cook in the cool of the early morning one day, and then eat the delicious results of our endeavor up to several days later — cold or at room temperature.

recipes that can be made ahead, so we can cook in the cool of the early morning one day, and then eat the delicious results of our endeavor up to several days later — cold or at room temperature.

Many dishes actually benefit from this treatment, gaining a depth of flavor from the sitting-around time and showcasing well as a cooler mouthful. Here’s an example of a vegetable — cauliflower — that benefits greatly from all of the above.

Cauliflower with cumin and cheese

Make this a day or two ahead, if you like — it keeps very well in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator, and the flavors will deepen.

Water

1 medium-large cauliflower (about 2 pounds)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 cup thinly sliced onion

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon minced or crushed garlic

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup diced mild white cheese (Jack, fontina or something similar)

3 to 4 tablespoons sour cream or plain yogurt (optional)

Put up a large saucepan of water to boil — or boil some water in the bottom section of a vegetable steamer. In the meantime, trim the cauliflower of its base and leaves and cut or break the rest into 3/4-inch florets. (You should get about 6 cups.)

Cook the cauliflower in or over the simmering water until just tender (2 to 3 minutes in the water; 5 or more minutes in the steamer). Refresh in a colander under cold running water, and drain thoroughly. Transfer to a medium-sized bowl.

Place a medium-small skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil, and swirl to coat the pan.

Add the cumin seeds, and cook over medium heat for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until aromatic. Don’t let them burn. Add the onion and salt, turn the heat to medium-low and cook for about 5 to 8 minutes, or until the onion becomes very soft. Stir in the garlic, and remove from the heat.

Add the sauteed onion mixture to the cauliflower, scraping in every last drop of oil.

Stir in the vinegar and some black pepper, then add the cheese and optional sour cream or yogurt. Mix until thoroughly combined and taste to adjust seasonings.

You can serve this right away, but for optimal flavor, I recommend covering the bowl and letting it stand for at least an hour before serving. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Summer is the season for homemade salsas. Keep this in mind when wandering through the farmers market and be sure to pick up extra salsa ingredients, which can be just about anything your imagination can wrap itself around.

For my fire-roasted pepper salsa, look for an assortment of bell peppers, and remember to throw them onto the grill the next time it’s fired up for a Sunday dinner. Keep this beautiful, versatile condiment on hand for sandwiches, pita chips, cheese platters — or for your next grilling adventure. It goes perfectly on just about any grilled meat, chicken, tofu or fish.

Note: Fire-roasted pepper salsa is a wonderful condiment, but if you don’t have the time or inclination to make the whole recipe, just roast and peel the peppers and store them, coated in olive oil, in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. They will keep for a week or longer and can be used in many ways. Don’t forget to save the juices — they make the world’s most brilliant soup stock.

Fire-roasted pepper salsa

This salsa keeps for up to a month in a tightly capped jar in the refrigerator. It actually tastes best after it’s had a chance to sit around for a while — the flavors develop and bond as a team.

Olive oil

2 pounds red, yellow or orange bell peppers (see note)

1½ teaspoons minced garlic

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

2 teaspoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon or lime juice

Cayenne

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS:

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon ground cumin

If broiling:

Preheat the broiler and lightly brush a baking tray with olive oil. Place the whole peppers on the tray. Broil the peppers, turning them every 5 minutes until they are blackened all over, about 15 minutes total.

If grilling:

Place the peppers on a grill over white-hot coals. Grill, turning the peppers every 5 minutes, until blackened all over, about 15 minutes total.

To continue making the salsa: Transfer the broiled or grilled peppers to a bowl and cover the bowl with a plate. Let the peppers cool for at least 45 minutes, during which time they will give off a good amount of delicious juice. Save all the juices. They will become part of the sauce.

Peel the peppers and remove and discard the seeds and stems. Mince the flesh and return the minced peppers to the bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredients and adjust the salt and cayenne to taste.

Serve cold or at room temperature. Store in a tightly capped jar in the refrigerator. Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Bell peppers acquire a subtle, smoky flavor when broiled. You can also get a similar effect by charring them directly on a gas burner or on a charcoal grill, cooked close to the coals. This salsa looks especially beautiful if you make it with an assortment of colored peppers.

Variation: Fire-roasted pepper salsa with cucumber and avocado

Prepare the salsa as in the main recipe. Before serving, add minced cucumber (peeled and seeded) and ripe avocado, peeled and cut into tiny dice. Adjust the salt to taste. Serve within a few hours for the best quality.

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