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Wednesday, August 20, 2003

Delaware's coast beckons vacationers late into summer

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By

Come September, the surf should still be warm, the sands dazzling and the shops still open on Delaware's coastal strip.

But other than beachcombing and visiting the outlets jammed together on U.S. Route 1, what else is there?

Plenty. Delaware's only winery is barely a half-mile from the main highway; the town of Lewes has enough history to keep most people busy for at least a day; and there's a three-masted tall ship available for a ride around Cape Henlopen.

First, the ship.

The Kalmar Nyckel is the name of a Swedish merchant vessel that arrived on the banks of the Christina River atop the Delaware Bay in 1638 carrying 24 men from Sweden, Finland, Germany and Holland. The idea was to establish a fort and trading post for Sweden in the New World. Where it landed is now known as Wilmington; the entire area around Wilmington was called "New Sweden" at one time.

The Kalmar Nyckel crossed the Atlantic four times -- which was quite a record for 17th-century ships -- but is believed to have sunk off the coast of England in the late 1600s. In the mid-1990s, the Kalmar Nyckel Foundation in Wilmington raised $5.5 million to rebuild the ship as an armed merchant vessel that serves as Delaware's "tall ship."

It also is docked near the Cape May-Lewes ferry terminal on the Lewes side for tourists who wish to plunk down $40 for a three-hour sail. Children younger than 13 get in for half price.

Sailing on the graceful barque is an adventure, as its deck is 93 feet long and its tallest mast is higher than 10 stories. It also has six miles of rigging and 10 cannons stationed on deck. The crew -- most of whom are volunteers -- are friendly, and the ship conforms to U.S. Coast Guard safety standards.

Be sure to sneak a look into the sumptuous captain's cabin at the small display with all manner of antique lamps and maps. The woods that went into the ship's construction are Central American hardwoods, Douglas fir, Sitka spruce and several species of local hardwoods. When not docking or casting off from the dock, the captain and his mate are available for questions or chitchat.

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