‘Big Island’ fit for king

HILO, Hawaii — The volcanic landscape that greets visitors landing at the Kona International Airport looks more like a crater of the moon than the lush palm trees and profusion of tropical flowers that visitors expect on their first visit to Hawaii, the Big Island. Not to worry, the anticipated beauty is at hand; the lava is just a stark reminder of the island’s birth and its continuing growth.

Hawaii lives up to the Big Island nickname, for it is the largest in the chain that forms the 50th state. It is as big as, well, Delaware, and it could hold the rest of the islands and then some. Its growth spurts whenever the Kilauea volcano erupts — which it has been doing continuously since 1983.

Not only is the weather picture perfect — at least here on the drier, leeward side — but the scenic beauty, sports activities, and history draw visitors from all over the world. We make our headquarters at the luxurious Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel on the northwest or Kohala Coast. The hotel shares the site with another superb hotel, the Mauna Kea.

Many visitors spend their entire vacation here without ever leaving the premises. Both hotels have beaches that have been named among the best in the world, spectacular golf, tennis, fitness and spa facilities and a wide variety of restaurants.

Never ones to spend our entire vacation lying on a beach, however magnificent it may be, we arranged for a rental car to see as much of the Big Island as we can. At the rental counter, we are offered a “fun” car at no additional cost. It turned out to be a 4-wheel-drive vehicle, which, although the rental agreement forbids driving it to certain areas of the island, did make our sightseeing easier in other areas.

After breakfast at the Ocean Terrace restaurant overlooking the magnificent Hapuna Beach, we hop in the sport utility vehicle and head into the countryside. We drive north and east along scenic Hawaii Route 270 to the area where King Kamehameha the Great was born about 1758.

The road abruptly ends at an overlook at Pololu Valley with a dramatic view of a black-sand beach 400 feet below. As we peer down, we imagine the life of the young Kamehameha, whose greatness, it is said, was predicted by a comet at his birth. His exploits as a young man would further mark him as special. In time, he would unify the Hawaiian islands.

In the town of Kapaau, the original statue of Kamehameha rises in front of the civic center. A famous copy stands in front of the Judiciary Building in Honolulu, because the original was lost in a shipwreck near the Falkland Islands. Years later it was recovered and brought here and placed under huge mimosa trees, where it stands proudly in full feather cloak, helmet, loincloth and sash.

Nearby Hawi evokes a bygone era. It is lunchtime, so we stop at the Bamboo restaurant to try the slightly sweet and hot pot stickers, kalua (baked in an underground oven) pork and cabbage, and passion fruit iced tea.

Next door to the restaurant is a shop filled with beautiful handcrafted wooden bowls made from local woods including koa. After strolling around, head for the coffee shop that also sells Tropical Dreams ice cream. Flavors range from mac nut — macadamia — and coffee toffee to Tahitian vanilla.

The gasoline is a few cents cheaper once you reach the Hawi area. Elsewhere regular ranges from about $2.50 per gallon. We’re told the best price is at Costco, if you are a member. It’s also cheaper in Hilo.

Returning to the intersection of highways 270 and 19, we stop at the Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site (the Temple on Whale Hill). It is the largest restored heiau, or temple, in Hawaii.

Kamehameha was advised he would be successful in conquering his enemies if he rebuilt the temple in honor of his family war god. At the dedication in 1791, a struggle broke out between Kamehameha and his main rival, cousin Keoua, that ended in the latter’s death. By 1810, the prophecies had been fulfilled and Kamehameha the Great was king of all the islands.

Back at the hotel, we dress for our first-ever luau at North Pointe at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. A free hotel shuttle service is provided, or it’s a short drive. Go early to see the ceremonial removal of the pig from the imu, the pit oven in which it cooked.

At twilight, a runner sounds the conch shell and lights the many torches on the property to set the mood. Besides kalua pork there is also kalua turkey and several tables of appetizers, entrees, salad and desserts. We also enjoy the chicken luau; grilled fish with ginger butter; purple sweet potatoes; lomi lomi salmon, and a fabulous baked-banana dessert.

Show headliner Nani Lim is well-known on the island as part of the famed Lim Family singers. Her troupe of featured performers traces history in dance. A Samoan fire eater causes gasps. Following the luau, stop at Manta Ray Point. At dusk, lights are switched on to attract small fish as food for the manta rays. This night several rays give an energetic performance to match the luau show.

The resort properties each have several restaurants which cater to different tastes. The Hakone is known for its Asian dishes and the Coast Grille for its seafood and Pacific Rim cuisine. If you aren’t planning a trip to the Mauna Kea Summit to see the stars, sign up for an hour-long stargazing session that occurs several evenings each week outside the Coast Grille.

Too soon, it is time to explore the windward, or rainy, side of the island. We head to Waimea, a nearby town with several well-known restaurants and shops. Nearby is the famous Parker Ranch, now the fifth-largest ranch in the United States.

In 1809, John Palmer Parker came to the Big Island from Massachusetts while the islands were still warring. He managed Kamehameha’s fish ponds and gained his trust and later would marry one of the king’s granddaughters. Kamehameha granted Parker two acres of land, and he continued to acquire land for as little as 75 cents an acre.

Today two homes on the property can be toured. The original saltbox-style home is impressively paneled with the dark, polished local koa wood. The home of Richard Smart, the last member of six generations of Parkers, holds his collection of impressionist art and one of the best collections of Peking art glass outside China.

Along the way, a must-see stop is the Waipio Valley overlook where the young Kamehameha was hidden from his enemies while growing up. The view from the picnic area is breathtaking as the waves collect and break onto the mile-wide black-sand beach.

This quiet area was home to a thriving taro industry until a tsunami wiped out the villages in 1946. Plan to stop for breakfast or lunch in Honokaa at Tex Drive-In. It’s famous for its malasadas or square doughnuts shaken in granulated sugar. They are good plain, but are even better filled with papaya, strawberry-guava, pineapple or pepper jelly.

A plate lunch is enormous enough for two to share. The grilled ahi tuna sandwich and huge mesclun salad with papaya dressing are recommended.

We made reservations at the Palms Cliff House in Honomu, just north of Hilo, and driving up the palm-shaded drive, we knew we had found something special. Removing our shoes to enter, Hawaiian style, we are taken on a tour of the lovely Victorian estate with a view to die for.

The inn rises above the 100-foot cliffs of Pohakumanu Bay where guests may see whales and dolphins romping. John and Michele Gamble purchased the estate and added eight guest suites a few years ago. Each amenity has been carefully thought out, from the Jacuzzi and fireplace to the fine European linens and the satellite television and DVD player — with plenty of movies on loan to guests.

Following a friend’s recommendation, we visit Akaka Falls State Park, a few miles from the inn. It’s a pleasant walk through a rain forest to the falls. Of all the state’s waterfalls it has the longest sheer drop, falling 442 feet from the cliffs above. As we leave it begins to rain, reminding us we have crossed to the windward and much wetter side of the island.

We decide to pop into Hilo to get our bearings as we search for more evidence of Kamehameha. We locate the famous Naha stone at the Hilo Public Library. As a sturdy youth, Kamehameha was goaded into trying to move the mythic 5,000-pound stone. Legend said that the person who moved it would become king of the islands.

To the surprise of onlookers, it is said that Kamehameha succeeded, announcing to the world that he was a man to be reckoned with.

Next morning, after tucking into Dutch pancakes with fresh fruit topping, Portuguese sausages, muffins, tropical juice and coffee on the lanai of the Palms Cliff House, we head for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the state’s leading visitor attraction.

Nowhere else in the United States is it possible to observe an erupting volcano, hike across a hardened crater floor and walk through a lava tube. Eruptions along the East Rift Zone of Kilauea, on the southern edge of the park, mark 21 years of continuous lava flow. Since it began on Jan. 3, 1983, more than 500 acres have been added to the Big Island. Although most of the flow occurs within lava tubes leading to the sea, occasional reddish glows are visible at night.

The National Park Service posts daily reports of lava flow and locations for the best views at the Kilauea Visitors Center. Be sure to stop for an orientation to the park. If time permits, stop at the Jaggar Museum to view ongoing underground activity monitored by a bank of seismographs. For updates on eruptions, go to www.nps.gov/havo.

Just off Crater Rim Drive, the Thurston Lava Tube affords a surreal subterranean experience, as well as shelter from the frequent rains. Adventurous hikers can request special park permission to visit nonpublic areas of the tube where it is possible to probe deep within the tube and experience total darkness. Safety practices for hiking, climbing and exploring are enforced by park rangers.

Continuing our circle of the island, we stop at Punaluu Black Sand Beach Park, the easiest to reach since the famous Kaimu Black Sand Beach at Kalapana was buried by lava in 1990. Green sea turtles are frequently seen in tidal pools. Boogie boarders, snorkelers, and swimmers are enjoying the water at the uncrowded beach.

As we work our way up the southwest coast of the island, we stop at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, once called “the City of Refuge.” In the 16th century, it provided a sanctuary to kapu or taboo violators if they successfully reached the sacred site. Today, it provides refuge for the threatened green sea turtles. Seeing them basking in the sun, several families bring their children to watch the turtles while observing rule not to touch the turtles or get closer than 15 feet to them.

On our last full day in Hawaii, we enjoy a relaxing breakfast and lunch cruise on the Fairwind II catamaran. A half-day morning or afternoon trip offers people of all ages and every swimming ability the opportunity to experience the underwater marine life that makes this Hawaiian destination so desirable. We sail past the monument to Capt. James Cook, who discovered the islands but overstayed his welcome and was killed here in Kealakekua Bay.

The catamaran is a popular venue for kayakers and snorkelers alike. The fee includes sanitized snorkel equipment to watch the sea urchins, fish, and coral in nearly crystal clear water. Even those wearing glasses are accommodated with specially ground lenses in their face masks. For children or those unsure of themselves, there are inner tubes and kick boards with plastic cutouts for easy viewing. Another option, at extra cost, is called “snuba,” a variation of scuba that allows breathing via a regulator while the tank is on a small raft on the surface.

At the booming tourist town of Kailua-Kona, we have come full circle with King Kamehameha’s extraordinary history. After becoming king of all the islands, he chose to live on the Big Island. He restored an ancient temple, the Ahuena Heiau, in Kailua Bay and made his residence next door. A replica stands today in front of the hotel that bears his name. The Big Island is where he ruled and where he died in 1819.

Although we have circled the Big Island, we realize we have only begun to scratch the surface of the place. We wonder who possibly could disagree with King Kamehameha’s choice for living — or for a vacation.