The old family house in southern Alabama was on a hilltop, flanked by an expanse of velvety grass that gave way to a dense forest of tall, majestic pine trees. Years ago, we often gathered at the bottom of the hill on steamy Sunday afternoons, around a plank-wood table covered with a pretty cloth and laden with food.
The chicken was fried earlier in the day, during the cool of the morning, but by late afternoon, it was especially sublime — slightly crispy with a moist interior, with a piquant flavor from the buttermilk marinade and a jazzy edge from a good sprinkling of finely ground black pepper.
Also gracing the table was a bowl of fresh butter beans or crowder peas nestled with slivers of ham, or a pan of sauteed squash glistening with onions.
Sometimes a creamy macaroni salad edged out potato salad, but menu favorites always included pickled okra, garden-fresh sliced tomatoes, deviled eggs, iced tea or lemonade, and biscuits wrapped in tea towels and slipped into brown paper bags to keep them warm.
When time allowed, my sister, Helen, who was a cook at a local cafe, churned a canister of vanilla ice cream. If not, a layer cake rested beside plump, lemon-scented tea cakes. I also remember fresh peaches sweetened and simmered with almond extract and always a pie, often sweet potato, though everybody loved coconut cream pie and banana pudding.
The food was prepared with care but not fussed over. The point was to sit outdoors and catch a cool breeze, combining fellowship and food, the Southern signature of gracious living. The people of the South have always loved outdoor gatherings, with food gracing the table or spread on the ground at country and backyard picnics; church revivals; and homecoming, hog-killing and corn-shucking parties; family reunions; political rallies; weddings; and receptions.
“There is something about eating outdoors that soothes the soul,” said my brother John, whom I recently visited in the Gulfport, Miss., area, where he lives. We gathered outside over pickled shrimp, fried mullet, baked sweet potatoes and a bountiful salad. “I can’t think of many things I enjoy doing more than sitting out in my back yard on a hot summer afternoon over a nice meal with friends and family.”
Neither can I. I left the South long ago, but my passion for down-home picnics still runs deep, seared in my memory as much with family gatherings as church socials. Years ago on summer Sunday mornings, Mama would rise early and pack a box or basket with dinner, which was spread on churchyard tables and stands in late afternoon after services, a free offering to all congregants.
I arrived in New York toting those deeply embedded picnic memories and quickly seized the city’s parks and plazas as if they were my own back yard. For years, we celebrated my son’s July birthday with a languid picnic in Central Park, lounging in the shade under heavy-branched trees, the city’s skyscrapers on the horizon.
At other times, on a moment’s notice, I would pack a Thermos bag with a sandwich, salad, brownies and fresh fruit; grab a bottle of wine; and head to the park or plaza for an outdoor concert or dance.
A dozen years ago, I moved to the 18th floor of a high-rise with a terrace the size of a Hummer, and in true make-do Southern fashion, I put this tiny outdoor space to good use. Once in the early evening on a hot July 4, I squeezed in nine guests for dinner around fold-up tables covered with starched linen tablecloths. All my old favorite Southern dishes were on the table, including an aromatic ginger cake served with a fruit sauce.
We whiled away the feast with vibrant chatter. By 9 p.m., the sky to the west was lit with the streaking glow of fireworks. For just a brief moment, I thought I was back home, dining under the stars in Alabama.
Southern fried chicken
For best flavor, use free-range organic chicken.
@$:31/4 to 31/2 pounds chicken pieces
1 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon salt or more
1 teaspoon mild paprika
Pinch of cayenne, optional
2 to 3 teaspoons or less finely ground black pepper
3 cups peanut or grape-seed oil, or as needed
3/4 cup flour
Trim away any excess fat and skin from chicken. Rinse chicken well under cold running water and pat dry with paper towel. Place in a large bowl. Pour buttermilk over; cover and marinate, refrigerated, for at least 1 hour.
Drain chicken in a colander, shaking to remove excess liquid. Pat chicken lightly with paper towel. Sprinkle chicken with salt to taste, paprika, cayenne (if using) and black pepper to taste.
When ready to fry chicken, pour at least 2 inches of oil into a deep, heavy cast-iron skillet or pot. Place pan on high heat, and, using a deep-frying thermometer, heat oil to 360 degrees.
Meanwhile, pour flour into a plastic or brown paper bag. Place chicken in bag, and shake bag to completely coat chicken with flour. Remove chicken and dust off any excess flour.
When surface of oil is rippling and thermometer registers 360 degrees, add several pieces of chicken at a time, beginning first with legs and thighs, then cooking wings and breasts. Don’t overcrowd the pan, or the chicken will steam.
Fry chicken until golden brown and the juices run golden when pierced with a fork, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 170 degrees.
Thighs and legs should cook in 20 to 25 minutes, the wings in 18 to 20 minutes and breasts in about 15 minutes. If temperature drops below 360 degrees, let the oil heat up again before adding more chicken. Remove chicken from hot oil to drain on paper towel. Keep warm in a 200-degree oven, and continue frying remaining chicken. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Oven-fried chicken
If you just can’t tolerate the heat of standing over a pan of frying chicken, season and flour the chicken as directed in the preceding recipe, then oven-fry. The skin won’t come out crackling crisp, but the chicken will still be delicious.
Pour about ½ cup cooking oil of choice into a large, heavy roasting pan. Place pan in preheated 425-degree oven and heat for at least 5 minutes. Very carefully remove pan from oven, and immediately add chicken pieces in a single layer, not touching.
Return pan to oven and very carefully place on lower shelf. Oven-fry chicken for 25 to 30 minutes, or until browned. Using long tongs, carefully turn chicken over and oven-fry 15 to 20 minutes longer, or until it is golden brown and registers 170 degrees when an instant-read thermometer is inserted into the thickest part. The wings and breast will cook more quickly than thighs and legs. Drain chicken on paper towel and serve hot. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Party lemonade
Mattie Hodges of Atlanta contributed this recipe to my cookbook “Soul Food” (HarperCollins). She said nothing quenches a Southern summer thirst like this sweet, delicious lemonade. Double or triple the recipe for a crowd.
4 to 6 large lemons
½ cup sugar or more
Put a kettle containing at least 2 cups water on to boil.
Rinse lemons, cut off and discard stems, and roll lemons on a table until soft. Place on a cutting board, and slice crosswise as thinly as possible. Place lemon slices in a heatproof glass bowl and sprinkle with ½ cup sugar.
Pour 2 cups boiling water over and let lemons sit at least 30 minutes, occasionally pressing slices against sides of bowl to extract as much flavor as possible. When mixture is thoroughly cool, stir in 3 cups cold water and add more sugar, if desired. At serving, pour lemon mixture into a chilled pitcher, add 1 tray (about 12 cubes) of ice and serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Sauteed summer squash
2 pounds zucchini or yellow squash, or a mixture of the two
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 onion
1 small red or green bell pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried basil
3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, olive oil or bacon drippings
Rinse zucchini and/or yellow squash, drain well and pat dry with paper towel. Cut off stems and discard, then cut the zucchini or squash into 1/4-inch slices, crosswise. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Slice onion; core and dice bell pepper. Chop fresh basil, or crush the dried herb.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil or bacon drippings in a large heavy skillet. Add zucchini and/or yellow squash, onion, bell pepper and basil. Cook over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until squash is tender and light brown, turning over occasionally to brown evenly and adding more oil or bacon drippings if needed to prevent sticking.
This dish is equally delicious served hot or at room temperature. To reheat, place in a heavy skillet and heat over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Makes about 4 servings.
Buttermilk ginger cake
This light but aromatic cake is fragrant with nutmeg and fresh ginger root, which years ago was thought to keep summer heat and thirst at bay. If you serve it with homemade vanilla ice cream and fresh fruit or berry sauce, you’ll wish summer would never end.
Butter and flour for pan
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1½ teaspoons ground or grated nutmeg
1 3-inch piece fresh ginger root to make 1/4 cup, or 2 teaspoons ground ginger
11/4 cups sugar
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup or more buttermilk, room temperature
Fresh fruit sauce (recipe follows)
Generously butter a 9-by-2-inch round cake pan, a 7-cup fluted pan or an 8½-by-2½-inch springform pan. Dust pan with flour and shake out excess.
Sift together 2 cups flour and the salt, baking powder, baking soda and nutmeg. If using fresh ginger root, peel with a small, thin knife, discarding any woody part. Chop ginger root coarsely, add 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and chop finely with a large knife or pulverize in a food processor. (Omit this step if using ground ginger.)
Combine ginger root or ground ginger with remaining sugar and butter in bowl of a standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment, or use a large mixing bowl and a hand-held electric mixer. Cream mixture at medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes, scraping bowl with a rubber spatula two or three times.
Add eggs, one at a time, and beat 30 seconds after each addition. Add vanilla and mix well. Reduce mixer speed to low, add flour alternately with 1 cup buttermilk, mixing only for a few seconds after each addition until blended.
After the last addition, beat batter on low speed for 1 minute, scraping bowl as needed. If the batter is a little thick, add a little more buttermilk and stir to mix well.
Pour batter into prepared pan, and spread top evenly with a spatula. Shake pan gently to settle batter. Place cake on lower oven rack, and bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Remove cake from oven, place on a wire rack, and cool in the pan for 12 to 15 minutes. Run a metal spatula around inside edge of the pan, invert pan onto the rack, tap gently, and remove the pan. If using a springform pan, unfasten the side of the pan and remove, then lift off the bottom of the pan.
Place cake, top side up, on the wire rack and cool completely. Serve cake with fresh fruit sauce on the side. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
FRESH FRUIT SAUCE:
I usually make this yummy sauce with a combination of berries and fruit.
8 or 9 ripe fresh fruits, such as peaches, plums or nectarines, or 3 cups cherries, blueberries or blackberries, fresh or frozen
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup sugar, or to taste
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons B&B (Benedictine liqueur)
If using whole fruits, rinse, drain, peel and cut into ½-inch pieces, discarding pits. You should have about 3 cups of diced fruit. If using berries, rinse and remove stems and pit the cherries.
Combine lemon juice, ½ cup sugar and ½ cup water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; cook over high heat until mixture thickens slightly, about 3 minutes.
Add fruit; reduce heat to low; and cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until sauce is thick and syrupy, stirring occasionally. While it is simmering, taste and add more sugar if desired. Stir in vanilla and liqueur, remove from heat, and cool sauce completely before serving with cake. Makes about 3 cups.
• Joyce White is the author of two cookbooks, “Soul Food: Recipes and Reflections From African-American Churches” and “Brown Sugar: Soul Food Desserts From Family and Friends” (HarperCollins). Contact her at: Jwhitesoul@aol.com.
Please read our comment policy before commenting.