- The Washington Times - Tuesday, November 8, 2005

California zinfandel, when made in a restrained style, can be a remarkably versatile red wine. Rich enough to complement grilled meats but sufficiently soft to pair well with pasta, pork or poultry, it can satisfy just about everyone at your dinner table.

This time of year, it’s a wine to keep in mind when thinking turkey.

Unfortunately, far too many zins these days are being made with anything but restraint in mind. As if operating under the assumption that bigger has to be better, lots of California winemakers are turning out boatloads of hot, heady and, yes, heavy wines. The first sip may seem exciting, but the second proves ponderous. Worst of all, these wines tend to overpower most foods.

Bucking this regrettable trend, Artezin’s 2003 zinfandel displays delightful charm and genuine finesse.

Bright and bouncy, it tastes supple and seductive. Sourced from vineyards in Amador, Mendocino, and Napa counties, this is zinfandel at its easy-drinking best.

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