Wine of the week

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Barth Rene, Pinot Blanc, Alsace, 2004, $14

Pinot blanc is often the forgotten member of the pinot grape family. A mutation of pinot gris, which itself is a form of pinot noir, it rarely receives the critical acclaim bestowed on its more illustrious siblings.

This lack of attention is mostly because pinot blanc never tastes all that assertive and seems content to play second fiddle in professional tastings. Pinot blanc, however, has one great virtue: It performs brilliantly with food. At the dinner table, it can be a genuine star.

Pinot blanc's affinity for food stems from its not wanting to steal the show. Precisely because its flavors never seem forward or showy, it complements rather than dominates a meal. At the same time, though, a good rendition will have a fairly creamy texture, crisp acidity and fresh, satisfying flavors. So while it won't taste flashy, it also won't seem wimpy.

Many of the best pinot blancs come from Alsace in northern France, and Barth Rene's is an excellent example. Marked by pear and apple flavors, with a hint of spice in the finish, it almost begs to be poured at dinner.

It will complement most poultry and seafood preparations nicely, but pinot blanc is so versatile at the table that it should pair nicely with many other things, as well. Try it with sushi, tacos, even with curry. Unless the dish is very heavy or very hot, this wine will work with it.