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MILAN, Italy
The latest fashion dilemma had to do with weather as designers offered new ways to fight the elements for their fall-winter 2007-08 menswear collections, shown recently on the Milan catwalk.
With ski resorts pining for snow in the warmest winter in more than a century and outdoor city cafes bulging with tourists in shirt sleeves, the barometer has had its effect on the fashion industry.
The unseasonable weather could just be a fluke, but designers aren't taking any chances and are focusing on indoor looks.
At Dolce & Gabbana, which opened the five-day preview showings recently, models sauntered down the runway in shimmering silver snowsuits, but underneath, they wore classic black suits, white shirts and thin ties.
The new Dolce & Gabbana suit has a close fit, a thin-lapeled jacket and tapered trousers. Whether with a two- or four-buttoned jacket, the suit exudes simple elegance.
Next season, the daring duo fights the elements with a new take on fashion for them the English schoolboy. The Dolce lad wears tailored jeans, classic sweaters and posh cashmere-wool overcoats. Footwear comes in hip patent leather lace-ups with exaggeratedly pointed toes. Hefty winter boots are absent from the collection.
Donatella Versace for both men and women has made a slow but persistent move from sexy to sophisticated. Her latest collection, presented Sunday, takes a giant step in this direction, with the accent on sobriety.
"It's more about spirit than muscle," she said before the much-applauded show in the brand-new Versace venue in downtown Milan.
By the designer's own admission, her muse for the austere collection defined by slim black suits worn with pristine clerical-collared white shirts was Pope Benedict XVI's private secretary, Monsignor Georg Ganswein.
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