Intimate entertaining

Fondue has returned in style and with flair. This popular dish of the 1950s and ‘60s has been rediscovered for joyful intimate entertaining.

Midwinter is an ideal time for a cheesefondue around a crackling fire, perhaps at a ski cabin. Or you might do a family hot pot meal in the Chinese tradition. Or invite guests for a chocolate fondue party, which is also fun for a bridal or baby shower.

What began as a simple Swiss peasant dish born of necessity has spawned countless variations to gain a prominent place in global dining. Besides the original cheese fondue and its variations, today’s repertoire encompasses vegetable, seafood and meat fondues cooked in broth, oil-based meat fondues and elegant dessert fondues.

It is a superb way to entertain a group of friends. It’s convivial, different and allows the hostess to be a partygoer, too.

Preparations are easily made in advance. Guests enjoy the spontaneity of the cooking done at the table. Plus, cleanup is minimal.

Party plans may encompass appetizer, entree or dessert parties. Or all three types of fondue can be featured at a single occasion. Another virtue of a fondue menu is that it is adaptable to many occasions throughout the day.

Today’s fondues also offer options to suit the trend to healthful dining. The cooking medium can be hot fat-free broth as a change from the traditional oil-based medium. And a fondue party can encompass both vegetarians and meat fanciers alike. The wide range of condiments and sauces available also allows for personal creativity in the menu.

I have had the fun of savoring fondues for decades. As I wrote “Fondue” (Chronicle Books for Williams-Sonoma), I drew on memories of savoring the original Swiss cheese and Emmentaler fondue on the slopes of Zermatt, as well as savoring shabu-shabu, boeuf bourguignon and other versions from other parts of the world. Recently, since premium chocolate has become so popular, I delight in chocolate fondue for a dessert party theme.

Cookware shops offer a wide selection of fondue pots. Ceramic and steel pots have been the longtime tradition.

Younger generations are reveling with the ease of plugging in a new electric pot for an intimate feast. Electric woks or electric cook pots are also suitable as cooking vessels.

Here are some tips to help you enjoy this happy custom.

• Select the right pot for the fondue you are making. There are many choices of fondue pots, and the varied styles are designed for different types of fondue.

• Thick ceramic or earthenware pots work best for cheese and chocolate fondues, which require low to moderate heat.

• Metal fondue pots — copper, stainless steel and cast iron — work best for both oil and broth-based fondues that require high heat.

• Fuel sources include denatured alcohol, solid-fuel burners and electric elements. Votive candles are useful for keeping chocolate fondue warm.

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