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The book led to shows on Food Network and Travel Channel, but before long he turned his razor wit on the celebrity food industry, taking particular aim at food celebrities who are not chefs, such as Miss Ray.

Ted Allen, host of Food Network’s “Chopped,” called him an “ex-chef, ex-junkie who’s made a fortune insulting his ex-industry.”

Before the start of the festivities — or perhaps hostilities — Mr. Bourdain reflected on his history of tirades against Miss Ray, Paula Deen, Guy Fieri and other food television stars.

“I’ve always felt that if you’re a public figure and I’m making fun of you and your work on television, at all times it is perfectly appropriate for you to give it back to me,” he said “Well, we’ve set an official appointment for that.”

Comedian Bonnie McFarlane poked fun at the tell-all nature of Bourdain’s book, saying he clearly didn’t understand what “confidential” meant.

“Truth be told, you’re a pretty amazing guy. You’re a husband, a father, a recovering drug addict, he stars in multiple TV shows, he’s traveled the world, he’s written multiple best-sellers,” she said. “Anthony, is there anything you can’t do? I mean, besides cook?”

• Compiled from Web and wire reports