Fur was a constant theme, even small bits of it. Whatever you’re wearing, the designer seemed to be saying, even if it’s not a coat or a jacket, there’s a spot for some luxurious fur.
A strapless silk cocktail dress had some fox trim across the top. A long silky flowing skirt had fur trim around the bottom. Many garments had fur collars.
The designer herself test drove pieces of her fall collection before she sent them down the catwalk.
“I took it last night. I couldn’t wait to wear it,” Karan said in a post-show interview after greeting guests Uma Thurman, Gretchen Mol and longtime friend Bernadette Peters.
The goal, she explained, was clothes that work for the woman always on the go, with many interests, demands and pleasures. That sure sounds like Karan.
She called the collection “Sensual, Soulful, Sculptural,” and there’s an emphasis on sculptural, making a dedication in her notes to her late husband, sculptor Stephan Weiss. “His art and soul _ is a part of me.”
There was a rawness to the collection, and it seemed like it came from the heart.
The opening look _ one of the best _ was a black draped “bodydress” with a fluid, almost liquidlike, cape on top. It was modern yet timeless, and wearable to the large base Karan appeals to.
There were a lot of body-conscious stretch and jersey looks, as there usually are on this runway, many topped with coats that were textured and interesting, and had a lot of design packed in.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
You always have a feeling at one of Lim’s shows that you’re at one of the hipper events of New York Fashion Week. You can feel it in the audience, which has a decidedly downtown, indie-music vibe, and you can see it in the clothes.
A big sartorial theme was embossed neoprene. Lim began with an overcoat in that fabric, in a fresh grapefruit color. Like many of his inventive creations it had something detachable, in this case a leather bib.
Motorcycle jackets were big, too, and Lim showed a peplum version, paired with a gray pullover, a khaki shirt, and shorts _ again in grapefruit neoprene.
Lim seemingly agrees with many designers this season that coats should be big _ as in oversized _ and comfy, and he showed a few. One was in a nice teal color, paired with a black leather jacket underneath, with a “bike snap” detail.
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