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At first, Hilfiger’s looks, staged like a movie-set library, looked like they were built on the Savile Row-styled menswear and Ivy League prep-school uniforms he has played with for almost 30 years.

There were houndstooth prints in every scale imaginable _ on a coat, turtleneck, tuxedo pants and even a dickie _ and probably even more plaid.

“Classics receive an unexpected twist,” was Hilfiger’s mantra, putting some newness on the catwalk while maintaining a relatable ease that would appeal to his broad audience.

Together on the runway, the collection evoked mod for 2013. The leather argyle pattern shifts and shirtdresses could reintroduce his muses _ and fashion icons _ Twiggy, Mary Quant and Marianne Faithfull to a new generation.

RALPH RUCCI

Romantic violet is the base of Ralph Rucci’s new collection.

“It’s a personal reference,” he explained. Pried yet further, he added: “It’s the eye color of someone in my life.”

Rucci’s brilliant shade of violet appeared in a “mink pullover” _ the mere term a clear sign of how he is attempting to meld his signature luxury into more casual garments.

The same color returned in dresses of wool jersey or crêpe, in a silk raincoat, in a sable coat, in a particularly well-proportioned cashmere suit, in a cashmere coat with leather embroidery, and even in filmy lace pajamas.

And it appeared once more for the final, show-ending garment: a long wool gown with tulle insets.

Rucci, famous for his intricate couture techniques, has a high-profile following. Guests included Martha Stewart and Sandra Bernhard.

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Associated Press writers Jocelyn Noveck and Amanda Kwan contributed to this story.

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Follow Samantha Critchell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/AP_Fashion