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Is it folly?

The fancy or specialty end of the nation’s coffee market is burgeoning, according to the Specialty Coffee Association of America, which reports that sales approached $13 billion last year, accounting for almost a third of the nation’s $44 billion coffee market.

Mr. Meza is not alone in his quest to stand out. Unusual coffee is not so unusual, even in these austere times. The rock groups Kiss and Styx have each come out with their own signature coffees, as have actors Wolfgang Puck.

Coffee A.M. offers 110 flavors of coffee beans, including Baked Alaska, Marshmallow Fluff, Toasted Chestnut, Christmas Cookie and Pistachio.