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Classic and fanciful both permeate Milan runways
Question of the Day
The Emporio Armani menswear collection for next spring and summer was titled “Lightness.” It could just as aptly have been called “Motion.”
The collection previewed Sunday was a study in quiet motion. From the double-darted trousers, to the thin ties, the long loopy belts, the lightweight T-shirts and the long, open jackets, everything flowed in a gentle whisper.
Suits were layered with loose-knit cardigans, emphasizing the lightness of it all, on top of ultra-light T-shirts. Loose long jackets were nearly see-through, revealing the shape of the man. The color scheme was sober and neutral in grays, putty and blue.
Digital prints were busy electrical currents or tiny synapses of light on sheer button-down blousons paired with matching T-shirts, or on the suits themselves.
In contrast to the lightness of the fabrics, shoes were either thickly soled or ankle-high boots, worn without socks.
The finale featured a cascade of barefoot boys wearing ankle-baring pleated pants cinched at the waist by thin tied leather belts and air-catching jackets over pale blue T-shirts.
Missing from the runway: shorts.
They say good things come in small packages, and so it was for Pringle who put on a snappy eight-minute show filled with wooly delights.
Known for its iconic argyle prints favored by British royalty, the Scottish knitwear company founded in the early 19th century, became a “must-have” label for women in the 1950s when it recreated the sporty twinset by weaving it in cashmere and pairing it with single string of pearls. Think Grace Kelly in her Hollywood heyday.
The scope of the company’s new design director, Briton Alistair Carr, who presented his first menswear collection Sunday, will reinvent the brand for the 21st century.
“I want to strike the balance between respecting and reinterpreting the Pringle of Scotland heritage,” the designer said in the fashion notes that accompanied the show.
The new knitwear comes in lightweight ribbed cashmere and cottons resembling corrugated stone, while the new argyle features extra large intarsias. Favorite colors are granite, navy, khaki and black with new age touches of acid green and industrial yellow.
Overall next year’s spring summer look is classic with an edge featuring high buttoned jackets, worn with pants or shorts, sleeveless sweaters with incorporated collars, and the latest jodhpur boot in trendy white and red.
By Andrew P. Napolitano
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