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Mixed among the typical fashion week crowd were private customers _ paying customers _ making notes about what they’d like to be wearing next spring.

For those women, de la Renta didn’t disappoint, with shocking-colored Chinese lamb jackets paired with wide-leg trousers, silk bow-tie blouses and embroidered skirt suits, and the big ballgowns that they need for their jet-setter schedule.

But he also showed a desire to introduce himself to a new crowd, one that would appreciate the unfinished office space he used as a venue, one that would like the Led Zeppelin-infused soundtrack _ one that might seriously consider wearing the flower headband in her hair like the model wearing a hippie-ish embroidered gown.

OLIVIER THEYSKENS

He has no lofty, complicated vision for his Theory collection. He just wanted to make “clothes for cool girls.”

Coming from someone else, that might sound a little geeky. But this is Theyskens, the 34-year-old fashion-world darling with the long hair and the slouchy jean shorts and the scuffed-up work boots. Anything he says sounds, well, fairly cool.

His collection was full of things you might see in New York’s Meatpacking district: Slouchy pants that started well below hip level. Loose sweaters, see-through tops peeking from jackets. Linen or wool blazers over baggy pants. A soft gingham-style minidress.

There was a sense of haphazardness in the way outfits were thrown together, and Theyskens says that’s what he was going for.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Rodriguez is soft and sexy for spring.

The sexy part is almost a given for Rodriguez, whose architectural style usually makes for fashion-forward, formfitting styles. The latest collection, however, included a looser, more languid look.

Skirts sat at the hips and flowed below the knee from there. Dresses were easier and breezier than one expects from Rodriguez. A white shirtdress with touches of black, silver and aqua was particularly billowy in shape.

But his stamp was there, showing some skin, which the fashion week crowd hasn’t seen all that much of for next spring. Bras in black as well as brights were meant to be seen under sheer and scarflike, backless tops.

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AP National Writer Jocelyn Noveck in New York contributed to this report.

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