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Simons aimed to create a new kind of couture. He said it wasn’t “just about reaching for a typical satin duchesse, a silk…but new forms.”

And this was certainly fresh territory.

One bright yellow, show-stopping evening dress might have come in silk, but its skintight sheer top exposed the model’s nipple ring.

Some of the looks in fur didn’t quite work, but the misses were outweighed by plays on traditional form.

In a clever touch, Simons transformed the Bar Jacket into a tuxedo-dress, turning its cupped pockets into a Madonna-style conical bra.

Simons‘ show proves that change is a good thing. Now, Dior could well give Louis Vuitton and Hermes a run for their money.

BOUCHRA JARRAR

Bouchra Jarrar is relishing her feminine side.

The lauded designer opened Paris’ haute couture week on a breeze of soft A-line silhouettes.

The 22 highly wearable dresses _ in a gentle palette of lavender, black and white _ floated by with clean draped collars and backs with effortless elegance.

But the simplicity of the collection was deceptive.

At work here was the atelier of the last great embroider, Francois Lesage, who passed away last year _ a huge loss to Parisian fashion.

But here his techniques carried on.

A perfect example was on one silk georgette knee-length dress with a deep green flash of crepe de chine. Its hand-woven draped collar in tweed showed off couture’s accomplished fastidious technique.

“It was like magic,” added Jarrar. “(The atelier) worked with Lesage for 30 years: you can see it in the clothes.”

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