Continued from page 2

But the digital-print satin dresses decorated with neon nailheads on the tops and grommets on the bottom that served as the finale were only as Proenza Schouler can do, and showed why they are considered one of New York’s bellwethers for fashion’s future. The styles were a little out there, but it’s where so many others will be.


Reed Krakoff’s designs have always been luxurious and sporty. For spring, he decided to go for sexy, too.

Krakoff was heavy on sheer layers, over everything from tanks to leather bra tops to dresses. Even the feet received the sheer treatment: Krakoff’s booties, worn by many models and also by actress Julianne Moore, were made of mesh (models wore “peep-toed” versions, while Mooore’s were closed-toed and black.)

There were “stocking jersey” coats, polo shirts, boxer shorts, track jackets and sweatshirts (none of it was suitable for the gym, mind you _ this was very high-end active wear.)

And leather, for which Krakoff is famous, provided a textural counterpoint to all the filminess: A sheer stocking-lace tank was paired with a bonded leather skirt; a stocking jersey track jacket with a sleek rubberized alligator skirt. A stocking jersey slip dress was accompanied by a black python tote.


You don’t need frills when you have fur, and J. Mendel always has fur. This preview was for spring, so no need for big, cozy coats, but mink hot pants? That’ll work.

Designer Gilles Mendel, celebrating 10 years of his signature house, paired those cypress-green, close-crop shorts _ made to have a velvet texture _ with a mink jacket that had leather panels and a chiffon skirt.

Mendel stuck to his fine details and super-luxe materials, including buttery leather and guipere lace, but the overall look wasn’t quite as frothy as he’s done in seasons past.

He cited photographs of the Kawachi garden in Japan and the wisteria that grows there as a starting point. A series of pintucked chiffon gowns, some with goddess touches and others with accordion pleats, evoked garden fairies.


New York Fashion Week has seen a lot of mixing and matching of fabrics, colors and textures, making for all sorts of chic and sometimes kooky combinations for the upcoming spring season. Anna Sui’s spin was to clash centuries.

She was fascinated by the period following the fall of Napoleon III in the late 19th century after reading a historical book this summer, and she studied up on 1950s’-era French interior decorator Madeleine Castaing. She also found herself inspired by neo-classical painters and how they evolved into the Impressionists.

At least they’re all French.

Story Continues →