Neil Ellis is one of the visionary vintners responsible for South Africa’s emergence in the post-apartheid years as a source of more and more truly fine wines.
Mr. Ellis excels with reds and whites, but his sauvignon blancs prove particularly impressive. They combine New Zealand-style raciness with French-inspired elegance and seem simultaneously sleek and sophisticated.
Until recently, Neil Ellis wines have been difficult to locate in Washington. A change of importers should solve that problem. If your local wine shop doesn’t yet carry them, ask the manager to place an order.
This particular sauvignon blanc is made from grapes grown on the west coast of the South African Cape. Wonderfully nuanced, it offers bright grapefruit and green berry flavors set against a flinty, mineral-scented backdrop. The fruit tastes crisp and fresh, but not at all overwhelming, so the subtle secondary aromas and flavors are able to come to the fore.
A perfect springtime sipper because it is cool and warm at the same time, this wine is an ideal partner for seafood — shellfish, certainly, but also white-fleshed fish such as snapper, sea bass and, this time of year, shad. Imported by Vineyard Brands.
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