Tuesday, April 27, 2004

Right now it’s high season for California asparagus. Big, bright green and juicy, they’re a real treat. Where

asparagus is concerned, I’ve always thought skinny was best. But I was wrong.

Much to my surprise, the big beauties can be just as tender and flavorful as their more diminutive relatives. I find myself purposely cooking extras to have some on hand for snacking. I love the cold spears straight from the refrigerator.

The big ones are also great for dipping, grilling, wrapping with bacon or prosciutto, roasting and adding to sandwiches.

My favorite method for cooking asparagus is the no-fuss, hot-oven method. Here’s how it works: Spread the asparagus in a layer on a roasting pan. Drizzle with a tiny bit of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast in a hot oven (400 to 450 degrees) turning once, until fork tender, about 15 minutes.

For a special touch, I add a sprinkling of grated, shredded or slivered cheese (Parmigiano or grana padano or slivers of Gruyere or fontina) and return to the oven until the cheese is melted.

One of my favorite meals is a big platter of roasted asparagus in the middle of the table, with or without the melted cheese. With it, I serve side dishes of roasted potatoes, red peppers and cremino mushrooms. The combination makes a hearty and satisfying vegetarian meal.

The following recipe is for a toasted sandwich of grilled or roasted asparagus layered with mozzarella or fontina cheese, roasted red bell peppers and slices of prosciutto between thick slabs of bread cut from a crusty whole grain loaf.

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The sandwich is toasted in a hot skillet until the bread is golden on the outside and the inside contains melted cheese oozing into and around the other ingredients. This outrageous sandwich needs no accompaniment because all the ingredients are between the bread.

After such a hearty repast, a cool bowl of fruit sorbet served with chopped fresh fruit or berries to match is the perfect dessert. Match the sorbet flavor to the available fruit. One of my favorites is strawberry sorbet with chopped strawberries or mango sorbet with diced mango. Or try melon and boysenberry sorbets together, topped with berries and garnished with mint. Or mix and match any sorbet with fruits and berries in season.

Preparation: Roast or grill the asparagus in advance, if possible. Assemble room temperature ingredients for sandwiches. Cut up fruit.

Grilled sandwich of roasted asparagus, cheese, red peppers and prosciutto

The preparation time is 15 minutes, and the cooking time is (asparagus) 12 to 15 minutes; (sandwiches) 15 to 20 minutes

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1 bunch large asparagus (12 to 16 spears), about 1 pound

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for sandwiches

1 crusty oval loaf whole wheat bread, cut into 8 (½-inch thick) slices

12 ounces whole or part skim mozzarella, fontina, Gruyere or other good melting cheese, coarsely shredded

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4 halves jarred roasted red bell peppers, rinsed, patted dry, cut into ¼-inch thick slices

8 thin slices prosciutto di Parma

To clean and trim asparagus, snap off tough portion of asparagus from bottom end. Rinse very well in two changes of room temperature water; drain.

Spread asparagus in a single layer in a baking pan. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

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Roast in preheated 400-degree oven until fork tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool.

Preheat nonstick grill pan, sandwich grill or a large nonstick skillet over medium heat.

Lightly brush one side of the bread slices with olive oil. Lay 4 slices of the bread, oiled sides down, on a work surface. Spread a thin layer of cheese on the bread. Top with a layer of asparagus cut to fit lengthwise. Top each with strips of roasted pepper, dividing evenly. Add 2 slices of prosciutto, folded to fit. Top prosciutto with remaining cheese, distributing evenly. Top with remaining bread, oil side up.

Carefully place sandwiches on preheated grill pan. (Sandwiches might have to be grilled in batches.) Grill over medium to medium-low heat until bottoms are golden, about 10 minutes. Using a wide spatula and a hand on the top portion of the sandwich to keep it together, carefully turn the sandwich over and grill the other side until golden and cheese is melted. Keep grilled sandwiches warm on a baking sheet set in a 350-degree oven. Serve sandwiches halved. Makes 4 servings.

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Fruit sorbet with fresh fruit

For a variation, combine a scoop of melon with a scoop of boysenberry and top with berries and mint. The preparation time is 10 minutes.

1 pint strawberries, other berries or 1 ripe mango

1 pint strawberry, mango, melon, boysenberry or other sorbets of choice

Mint for garnish, optional

Rinse and hull the strawberries or other berries, cut strawberries into ¼-inch dice, if using. If serving mango, halve it lengthwise off center so the knife slides along the center pit. Cut along the other side of the pit. Peel the skin from the two rounded lobes and cut mango into ¼-inch dice.

Prepare the fruit ahead and let stand at room temperature until ready to serve. Just before serving, scoop sorbet into bowls and top each with about ½ cup of cut-up fruit or berries. Garnish with mint, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

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