Bogle, Merlot, California, 2002, $12
Looking for a red wine that’s easy to drink but at the same time is substantial? Try this merlot
from Bogle, long a source of good-value California reds. It’s packed with fruit flavor, never tastes sappy or candied, and offers subtle nuances that enhance enjoyment.
Many California merlots in this wine’s price range sacrifice structure for softness. As if fearing the tiniest hint of tannic astringency, the winemakers craft them to be so supple that they can seem almost empty.
Bogle’s merlot, while silky on the palate, retains a firm backbone of tannin and acidity. The result is a structure that can support the cherry and plum flavors, as well as leave room for the hints of leather and tobacco that come to the fore in the finish. Given the reasonable price sticker, its depth and length prove quite impressive.
While this wine will hold its own for a couple of years, it will not improve noticeably and in fact is drinking nicely right now. Enjoy it with burgers or pastas, even pizza.
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