DuClaw Brewing Co. stands on its ales alone, but it’s refreshing to find a regional microbrewery that can also deliver smart, reasonably priced meals in an edgy atmosphere.
First, some views on the brews at DuClaw’s Bowie Town Center location in Prince George’s County.
The brew pub offers six staple beers on tap year-round. On first visit, I recommend the DuClaw Sampler ($6). You’ll get a sample (enough for two) of the following:
• Blonde Ale, the brew pub’s most popular beer, with a light and fruity taste, mild hop character and smooth drinkability, making it a neighborhood favorite.
• Bad Moon Porter, medium- to full-bodied with a slightly sweet, malty presence combined with hints of chocolate and coffee.
• Misfit Red, a medium-bodied amber ale, with a smooth malt character and a hint of roasted malt flavor.
• Ravenwood, inspired by the Kolsch beers of Germany, a light-bodied, light-colored beer that undergoes an extended cold-conditioning to give it a crisp, clean flavor.
• Venom Pale Ale, an American-style pale ale with a citrusy flavor and aroma; dark-golden, medium-bodied and very hoppy.
• Kangaroo Love, whose crisp, light body and full malt flavor give it a satisfying Aussie finish.
Kangaroo Love and Ravenwood are recommended for the microbrew newcomer.
DuClaw also unleashes a number of seasonal beers. Sawtooth, an unfiltered Belgian-style wheat beer spiced with orange peel and coriander, is on tap for a release party 6 p.m. to closing May 26 and 27.
Now some food for thought.
Many brew pubs knock your socks off with their brews but then disappoint when it comes to delivering a great meal.
DuClaw rises above typical pub fare. Don’t get me wrong; this is not upscale dining (waiters are in jeans and T-shirts), but there are a fair number of plates taken to new heights. Prices are very reasonable, and the portions are enormous.
Start with the combo platter ($11.99); it’s finger-licking good: Crispy fried pot stickers with spicy Thai dipping sauce, mesquite chicken rolls served with charred tomato salsa, spicy or barbecue smoked wings with celery and blue cheese, and beer-battered onion rings.
Most of these items are on the spicy side and are a great accompaniment to the beer. The pot stickers weren’t greasy but crisp and flavorful. The Thai dipping sauce added a nice level of heat, but it wasn’t too fiery. Mesquite chicken rolls were the most unusual of the offerings, barely larger than a pencil but packing a big punch. The onion-ring batter was crisp and flaky, certainly better than most.
Bad Moon chili is a hearty variety, with cuts of Black Angus beef served in a round bread and topped with cheddar cheese and diced onions.
There are seven salads to choose from, including the sesame-grilled chicken with shredded carrots, scallions and crunchy chow mein noodles tossed in a mix of salad greens and toasted sesame dressing.
The Angus burgers are huge (10 ounces). The brewhouse burger is topped with cheddar, bacon and barbecue sauce; the Arizona burger comes with bacon and smoked Gouda cheese and is served with a side of chipotle mayonnaise.
Other sandwiches include a turkey melt on a pretzel roll, a portobello mushroom and roasted pepper panini, grilled tuna, crab cake, Carolina pork barbecue, and DuClaw’s version of a Cuban sandwich.
As for main plates, try the lime chicken ($10.99), a whopping chicken breast marinated in Southwest spices and lime, then grilled, served with garlic mashed potatoes, marinated broccoli and creamy ancho chili sauce on the side.
A salmon fillet ($12.99) is dusted with Cajun seasonings and sauteed in a bourbon molasses sauce. It’s served with garlic-infused rice and marinated broccoli. The salmon was cooked perfectly. The bourbon molasses sauce provided a nice sweet contrast to the Cajun seasoning.
Arizona pasta ($12.99) is penne tossed with slices of chicken, onions and bacon in a creamy smoked-Gouda sauce, topped with tomatoes and ancho chilies, and served with Parmesan crisps. This interesting pasta dish offered just enough richness with the Gouda sauce but was balanced nicely by the tomatoes and chilies. The onion and bacon added depth.
There’s also Gorgonzola carbonara, spicy jambalaya, smokehouse ribs, New York strip steak and crab cakes.
In August 1996, DuClaw Brewing Co. debuted in Bel Air, Md. This is where Jim Wagner, brewmaster for DuClaw, works his magic concocting the brews. DuClaw later opened a second establishment at Arundel Mills Mall in Hanover, Md.
According to general manager Willie Owens, the Bowie Town Center location opened in December. A unique part of the Bowie location is a two-story tower for those who love to drink beer outdoors. All locations carry the same menu and the same beers on tap.
RESTAURANT: DuClaw Brewing Company, 4000 Town Center Blvd., Bowie; 301/809-6943
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until midnight Friday and Saturday; bar closes later
PRICES: Soups and salads, $3.99 to $7.99; appetizers, $3.99 to $11.99; sandwiches, $6.99 to $9.99; entrees, $9.99 to $17.99; desserts, $4.99
RESERVATIONS: Accepted but not required
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards
PARKING: On site
ACCESS: Wheelchair accessible
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