You’ll see the friendly yellow-and-red flag outside the Bistro d’Oc as you walk down 10th Street NW, across the street from Ford’s Theatre and next door to the Taylor House, where President Lincoln died. Lace curtains flutter at the window. Inside, the walls are a rich orangey red. Yellow and red, the colors of the Pays d’Oc, predominate in the decorations and photographs of southwestern France, where the “langue d’Oc” was spoken. The pressed-tin ceiling is original.
Chef-owner Bernard Grenier was born in Narbonne, and he named his cozy restaurant Bistro d’Oc in honor of his native region of France, once the seat of the mysterious and heretical Cathars, famous for its walled villages, for foie gras, cassoulet and Armagnac.
Provencal, the musical dialect spoken there, comes from the Occitanian language, which evolved from spoken Latin, heavily influenced by the languages of pre-Roman tribes. “Oc” means “yes.” And, yes, Bistro d’Oc, is well worth a visit.
The restaurant is reminiscent of thousands of bistros scattered throughout France: unpretentious, welcoming and serving solid bourgeois food. It’s down-home a la Francais.
The bar is a good place to enjoy a glass of wine and a snack, if not a full meal. There’s a television set at the end of the bar, but it’s not obtrusive, and Edith Piaf sings her mournful songs in the background.
Chef Grenier prepares several dishes special to his region of France, but also such standard bistro fare as steak with french fries and grilled chicken, both of which are excellent. A bistro is not the place to go for haute cuisine, but what comes to the table at Bistro d’Oc is invariably tasty, well prepared and satisfying.
Mrs. Grenier is Thai, so an occasional Thai dish pops up — such as a lunchtime special of curried chicken, or a crispy crab cigar with green papaya salad, an appetizer on the regular menu. The cigar is like a fat, crisp spring roll with undertones of spice and a pleasant sweet-sour dipping sauce. The shredded green papaya is similar to seaweed.
There are daily specials, such as duck garbure; a thick cabbage-and-bean soup typical of the Bearn region; or veal kidneys in a rich, creamy mustard sauce, as well as soul-satisfying desserts.
Lunch and dinner menus are much the same, except that a few sandwiches are added at lunch (an Angus burger, a hot ham-and-cheese croissant).
A Languedoc salad (called mesclun salad at dinner) with a mix of crudites in a light vinaigrette, or a salad of apples, walnuts and blue cheese on a bed of butter lettuce is a refreshing starter to a meal. The crudites are typically French — grated carrots, sliced cucumbers, red cabbage, a few slices of red radish.
Naturally, snails in garlic butter, braised tripe, calf’s brains meuniere, a plate of cold garlic sausage and olives and pate de campagne are on the menu. In addition to such classic bistro starters, there also are appetizers from other cuisines, including baked Brie with apple compote, hot Vermont goat cheese salad, and a hot avocado stuffed with crabmeat.
The steak au poivre is first-rate, a fine sirloin in a rich, dark sauce; the pepper is not overwhelming. The french fries (no “freedom fries” here) are excellent, hot and freshly made. The same fries accompany the organic free-range roast chicken, which is moist, crisp and perfectly cooked.
Regional dishes include braised veal with tomatoes, olives and herbs; a cassoulet of duck, pork, lamb and sausages with white beans; duck confit and a ragout of lentils accompanying grilled pork tournedos.
As befits a French bistro, steamed mussels with the traditional french fries are on the menu, but Mr. Grenier also offers tuna and salmon, the former with a Thai touch of sesame seeds and the latter with a Basque sauce of mixed peppers.
Desserts are serious business at Bistro d’Oc. The crepes suzettes are irresistible. The chef adds a little strawberry to the orange and Grand Marnier and a dollop of whipped cream on top. Other house specials are profiterolles with hot chocolate sauce and pineapple rum creme brulee.
House wines at $6 per glass come from the Pays d’Oc and while not memorable are perfectly drinkable. The young waiters and waitresses are efficient and accommodating. Because the restaurant is just across from Ford’s Theatre, it is a good place for a pre-theater dinner, and Bistro d’Oc has a three-course pre-theater menu for $20. It’s quite a bargain.
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