So what if the caviar was diluted a bit — with crab and cucumber rillette — at least it was American and came in a tin, a “Tin of Sin” as the menu put it. That would be a tiny complaint about Wednesday’s seven-course meal, accompanied by Dom Perignon and 10 American wines, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Inn at Little Washington and honoring 21 of America’s so-called culinary pioneers.
An indulgence to be sure — but who better to pull it off than the Inn’s own founder chef, the self-taught Patrick O’Connell, host for the black-tie benefit at the Andrew W. Mellon Auditorium that attracted more than 400 people paying between $575 and $2,500 apiece. Beneficiary of the event was Five and Alive, a charity helping provide health and education services to children around the world who are age 5 and under.
The modest and astute Mr. O’Connell could have added his own name to the list, but did not, preferring instead to offer up as entertainment between courses a filmed history of the Inn and his accomplishments. Even first lady Laura Bush sent a letter of greetings, recalling her visits to the pricey destination spot in the Virginia countryside.
Such a lavish gustatory spread (including seared ahi tuna sashimi, fricassee of Maine lobster and braised veal cheek) highlighted the bounty of native products and raised spirits into the stratosphere during a live auction that, at one point, produced a winning bid of $105,000 by Sean Dobson of McLean, Va., president of Texas-based Amherst Securities Group, for multiple dinners and overnight stays to be prepared and enjoyed by multiple chefs and hostelries at multiple sites. “I’ve got a lot of friends,” Mr. Dobson said afterward, looking pleased with himself. Friends at his table would share in the prize.
Mr. O’Connell began the evening onstage by praising his loyal staff and clientele. “Let it be an Irish funeral and a Jewish wedding,” he said joyfully. “Mazel tov!” he cheered, lifting up a glass of Irish whiskey. Servers, whose numbers were doubled for the occasion, wore the Inn’s signature Dalmatian print aprons; the kitchen crew was four times larger than usual. “There hasn’t been a gathering of this kind in a long time, maybe not since Jean-Louis Palladin’s funeral,” noted retired restaurant critic Phyllis Richman, one of the “visionary pioneers” present along with Daniel Boulud, Gary Danko, Thomas Keller, Sirio Maccioni, Mimi Sheraton, Charlie Trotter, Alice Waters and Tim and Nina Zagat. Eight others were “honored in memoriam.”
— Ann Geracimos
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