Like onion, but more delicate and with a hint of sweetness, leeks are by far my choice for adding rich, elegant flavor to a savory
stew, soup, rice, potato, poultry or meat. They aren’t bad in quiches or frittatas, either.
Sauteed in butter or olive oil, leeks add a subtle onion flavor that won’t overpower other flavors in a dish and can be substituted in almost any savory dish where an onion is called for.
The leek is related to onions, shallots, scallions and garlic. In ancient Roman times, it was highly esteemed and served in many dishes. While it has been valued in some cultures, this green and white stalk has also been relegated to the stockpot and not much more in other cultures. It’s difficult to believe that leeks have been referred to as a poor man’s asparagus.
Most plentiful in the fall, winter and early spring, leeks look like large scallions with a white bulb and a green cylindrical stalk. When selecting leeks try to pick ones that are medium-sized (no more than 1½ inches in circumference, otherwise they may be fibrous and less sweet) with a large white bulb and a few inches of light green stalk as well as the dark green. Buy them with the long green leaves attached so that you can cut them just before cooking for optimum freshness.
The leeks cooked in this recipe are browned and braised in broth, lending a uniquely rich flavor to the dish. Dressed with simple vinaigrette made from the broth, leeks vinaigrette are a classic dish on bistro menus across France. This dish is delicious served hot or as a chilled first course on a pretty platter.
Help is on the way:
• Leeks are very dirty, so make sure to clean them thoroughly
• Here’s a tip when cleaning leeks: Split them down the middle, making sure that the root is intact, and place under cold water to clean out any excess dirt.
• Garnish the leeks with 1/2 pound cooked shrimp or crabmeat, then drizzle on the sauce.
• Serve as a side dish with any grilled dish.
• Serve as a first course, sprinkled with chopped egg and garnished with red and yellow cherry or tiny pear tomatoes.
Leeks vinaigrette
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned (see above)
1½ cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a skillet large enough to hold the leeks in one layer, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat.
Put the leeks in the skillet and cook, using tongs to turn them, for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the broth and the 2 tablespoons dill. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the leeks are tender when pierced with a knife. Transfer the leeks to a serving platter with a rim.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the lemon juice and mustard to the skillet, and whisk to combine over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over the leeks and garnish with dill. Serve immediately, or chill.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Diane Rossen Worthington is the author of 18 cookbooks, including “Seriously Simple Holidays.” To contact her, go to www.seriouslysimple.com.
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