By the time April rolls around, I start to think that it’s spring. The calendar certainly confirms that a new season is under way, but, ah, that pesky New England weather often doesn’t get the message. The days are longer and there is more sun, but it’s usually still chilly in early April where we live in Massachusetts.
When entertaining during this transitional time between the two seasons, I serve dishes that are comforting enough to counter the cold, but that also hint at spring.
Creamy turnip soup with toasted bread crumbs and chives is a good example.
This satisfying soup is made with small white turnips (which are harbingers of spring) that are sweeter and milder than the stronger yellow winter ones known as rutabagas.
These white turnips tinged with purple are peeled and diced, then sauteed along with chopped leeks in butter. This vegetable duo is simmered in chicken stock until tender; then the mixture is pureed and enriched with milk. Kosher salt and white pepper are the only seasonings needed, while toasted bread crumbs and snipped chives provide texture and color as garnishes.
Although the recipe’s title indicates that cream is called for, I actually used whole milk to enrich the soup and give it its smoothness. This pale ivory soup, which takes only about 45 minutes to assemble and cook, can be prepared a day ahead and serves 6.
You could offer this soup as the opener for a spring dinner or serve it with a watercress salad for lunch or a light supper. It is thick and filling enough to stave off an April chill, but the taste of those little turnips and the bright green chives will remind your guests that it’s spring.
Creamy white turnip soup with toasted bread crumbs and chives
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups sliced leeks, white and light green parts only (2 to 3 medium leeks)
1½ pounds small to medium white turnips, peeled and cut into ½ inch dice
4 cups chicken stock
11/4 cups whole milk
Kosher salt and white pepper
Toasted bread crumbs (recipe follows)
4 teaspoons chopped chives for garnish
Melt the butter in a large, heavy, deep-sided pot set over medium high heat. When hot, add the leeks and saute, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the turnips and saute and stir 3 minutes. Add the stock and bring mixture to a simmer. Lower the heat and cook at a simmer, uncovered, until vegetables are soft and tender, about 20 minutes.
Puree the soup in a food processor, blender or food mill and return the soup to the pot. Or use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pot. Return the pot to the stove and stir in the milk.
Heat on low heat to warm the soup, 2 to 3 minutes.
Season soup with ½ teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed. (Soup can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat over medium heat.)
To serve, ladle the soup into 6 bowls and sprinkle each serving with some toasted bread crumbs and chives. Makes 6 servings.
Toasted bread crumbs
The bread crumbs can be prepared 4 hours ahead; leave, uncovered at room temperature.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
½ cup coarse fresh bread crumbs made from good quality peasant bread or baguette without crust
Heat butter in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs and cook, tossing continuously, until crumbs are deep golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to a plate.
Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of “The Big Book of Backyard Cooking” (Chronicle Books).
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