Drylands Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2007, $15
Sure, there’s cool cabernet in California, super syrah/shiraz in Australia, and pure pinot noir in Oregon.
Yet to date, only two New World wine-growing regions have enjoyed such spectacular success with originally European grape varietals that they have transformed international perceptions of those varietals.
One of those new trendsetters is red malbec from Argentina. The other is white New Zealand sauvignon blanc.
New Zealand sauvignon, virtually unknown in America 20 years ago, takes a French model from the Loire Valley and infuses it with brash energy. The result is a truly new style, one that emphasizes vivid, vivacious flavor over all else. Not surprisingly, winemakers elsewhere— in California, Chile, northern Italy, South Africa and, yes, France, now are imitating it.
Dryland Estate’s 2007 is a fine example. It offers pungent grapefruit flavor, crisp acidity and green, grassy undertones, all enhanced with a hint of sweetness that prevents the wine from ever seeming austere.
Although compellingly complex, there is nothing subtle about it. Light-bodied yet full-flavored, it will show best when paired with seafood, especially shellfish, salads or other fresh vegetarian fare. Drink it young, so that it always tastes bright and brash. (Imported by Icon Estates.)
Please read our comment policy before commenting.