Chowder is quick with canned salmon

Soup is the go-to antidote to chilling winds and your reward for shoveling out the driveway.

When you’re in from the cold, though, you probably don’t want to wait an hour or two before enjoying soup’s warming effects.

That’s why fast-cooking chowder is part of my Two’s Company winter repertoire.

Although chowder typically is thick, chunky seafood soup - think clam chowder - it can be any hearty soup with ingredients you can sink your teeth into.

Some chowder is broth-based, but for the sake of comfort and nourishment, I recommend milk-based chowder instead.

To assemble chowder in minutes, you need three basic components:

m Protein, which can be leftover cooked poultry, canned fish or seafood, or cheese.

m Avoid smoked meats or oysters or salty anchovies that overwhelm the other ingredients.

m Vegetables, including the following: onion, leek, shallot or scallions for flavoring; potatoes and root vegetables for body; and vegetables that add interest, such as greens, corn and mushrooms. Precook potatoes, carrots, parsnips and similar vegetables before adding to chowder.

m Liquids, which, to my preference, are a combination of milk and cream.

The greater the proportion of cream, the richer-tasting the chowder.

Don’t overdo it, as the great amount of fat in chowder that uses only cream overwhelms the delicate flavors of the protein and vegetable ingredients.

The following recipe for salmon chowder takes less than 20 minutes to prepare if you start with cooked potatoes.

Use this as a basic formula. Add canned corn, peas or green beans. Switch from salmon to tuna or chicken, or serve as a vegetarian dish with a sprinkling of shredded cheddar cheese. Anyway you vary this recipe, it provides a seasonal thaw.

Salmon chowder with spinach

Makes 2 servings

1 tablespoon butter

1 celery rib, trimmed and chopped

1 leek, white part only, chopped

1 tablespoon flour

1 1/2 cups milk (whole or reduced-fat)

1 packed cup coarsely chopped fresh spinach

1/8 teaspoon pepper or to taste

1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste

6 baby Yukon Gold or new red potatoes, cooked and halved or quartered

7 ounces canned salmon, drained and flaked (see note)

1/4 cup half-and-half

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives, optional

Melt butter in medium pot over medium heat. Add celery and leek. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently until leek is tender.

Stir in flour. Add 1/2 cup milk, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. Gradually add remaining milk.

Stir in spinach, pepper and salt. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 3 minutes or until spinach is tender.

Stir in potatoes, salmon and half-and-half.

Cook over low heat for 5 minutes or until hot. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with chives.

Note: Salmon comes in a variety of sizes. If you can’t find a 7-ounce can, use half a 14.5-ounce can.

• Bev Bennett is the author of “30-Minute Meals for Dummies” (John Wiley & Sons).

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