- The Washington Times - Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Bisol, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut “Crede,” Italy, $18

Prosecco is a grape as well as a wine. While the wine, which has become extremely popular these days, sparkles like champagne, the comparison does not extend much beyond the fizz. Made by the tank or “charmat” method (rather than with a second fermentation in the bottle), it usually feels softer and seems simpler. Naturally aromatic, the prosecco grape yields wines that, even when labeled “brut,” taste at least slightly sweet.

A great deal of prosecco, particularly if made with grapes grown on the flat plains of Trevisio, is fairly nondescript. Gulped by the gallon by thirsty tourists in Venice, its charm never travels all that well. Other proseccos, however, are well worth drinking when not on a Venetian vacation. The best of these come from the Conegliano and Valdobiadene hills, where the contrast between warm days and cool nights gives the wines structure and finesse.

The Conegliano-Valdobiadene region recently has been awarded DOCG status, the most prestigious designation any Italian wine area can receive. Within it, the very best wines often come from steep, individually designated vineyards.

Crede is one of them, and this particular wine exemplifies prosecco at its finest. With an aroma redolent of spring flowers and ripe fruit, it tastes of peaches and cream, with a crisp, satisfying finish. Not sweet enough to serve with dessert, it will perform best if drunk as an aperitif or paired with light fare. (Imported by Vias.)

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