Leprosy’s sacred land

KALAUPAPA, Hawaii

In a state known for bustling, exciting tourist destinations such as Waikiki and the Kilauea volcano, Kalaupapa is sacred ground, with a history of disease, suffering and isolation. Some 8,000 people have died on this remote peninsula since the Hawaiian Kingdom started exiling leprosy patients here in 1866.

Many were torn from their families and left to scrounge for shelter, clothes and food. The vast majority were buried in unmarked graves.

Today, visitor interest in Kalaupapa, on the northern edge of Molokai island, is growing. And it will likely increase when the Vatican proclaims Father Damien - the 19th-century priest who ministered to the leprosy patients - a saint, most likely late next year.

The two dozen patients still living here are eager to celebrate Kalaupapa’s most famous resident, a selfless man who cared for leprosy patients when many others shunned them. They would welcome pilgrims at Damien’s church and grave.

But therein lies a dilemma. The patients and their supporters also don’t want throngs of tourists disturbing the community’s privacy and desecrating the land.

“The priority is the patients. That’s why we have to approach this very delicately,” said state Sen. J. Kalani English. “Their privacy is paramount, their security is paramount, their dignity is paramount.”

Kalaupapa’s attraction for tourists and pilgrims is heightened by the dramatic story behind the Vatican’s recognition of a miracle attributed to Damien, who died in 1889 after contracting leprosy himself. It’s this miracle that cleared the way for sainthood.

Audrey Toguchi, an 80-year-old Catholic from the Honolulu suburb of Aiea, came to Kalaupapa 10 years ago to pray for help at Damien’s grave after she was diagnosed with terminal cancer. Less than a year later, Miss Toguchi’s cancer disappeared.

In July, Pope Benedict XVI ruled Damien had intervened because there was no scientific explanation for her recovery.

Kalaupapa is dramatically isolated, a peninsula cut off by 2,000-foot cliffs and surrounded by ocean. It can only be reached by small plane, mule ride or a one- to two-hour hike. Only 100 people live here, including the patients and care workers.

The state Department of Health limits visitors to Kalaupapa at 100 per day, and each visitor must obtain a permit. On average, only about 25 make the trip.

Terryl Vencl, executive director of the Maui Visitors Bureau, which promotes Molokai tourism, expects more people will want to visit but isn’t sure how many. The bureau has no plans to market tours after Damien is canonized but will give travel agents information about Kalaupapa.

Lawmakers, state officials, and the National Park Service, which operates a historical park at Kalaupapa, all promise they won’t allow the visitor cap to be raised without approval by from the remaining patients.

Anwei Law, a historian who has been coming to Kalaupapa for almost 40 years, said visitors need to remember that Kalaupapa is not just another tourist attraction.

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