Dresses go flouncy, slinky at London Fashion Week

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MARIA GRACHVOGEL

Maria Grachvogel’s spring and summer collection was a minimalist celebration, with long, unadorned dresses and models wearing naturally styled hair and very little makeup.

The pared-down silhouette had a fresh look as Grachvogel experimented with silver crepe catsuits and vivid prints. Some dresses in unusual colors like canary yellow and pale silver gave the collection a faraway feel set off by the jungle drums prominent on the soundtrack.

Many of the evening wear pieces were cut from a single piece of fabric that draped naturally over the body with a minimum of seams and decoration for deceptively simple, sensual look.

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SASS & BIDE

Australian design duo Sass & Bide presented a collection in which earthy tones of khaki and cream were infused with copper and clashing metallics. Patterns featured prominently, with some outfits resembling a dripping artist’s canvas. One of the most winning looks was a printed balloon style skirt teamed with a striped top and sky high heels.

There was no lack of dramatic details: Hammered metal body harnesses and beaded shoulder details conjured images of Joan of Arc, while stiff collars made of raffia reminded viewers of Elizabeth the First. The female warrior was clearly a theme here, as in Jena.Theo’s show earlier Friday.

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FELDER FELDER

Flirty, barely-there skater skirts, studded bras and shiny cigarette pants channel the ‘80s at the Felder twin sisters’ show, which was inspired by textures and what the designers described as “free spirits.” The color palette was accordingly fun and disco-worthy: Electric blue, pink and red leather came bouncing down the catwalk to the soundtrack of “Born to be Wild.”

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HANNAH MARSHALL

Hannah Marshall’s show was the very opposite of the fun atmosphere at Felder Felder. Opening with a short film showing a nude model struggling to get out from under a piece of sheer fabric, her collection was all monochrome _ from black, chalky gray to dirty white, all outfits stayed true to a single color. Sheer chiffon, mesh and organza were hardened with tough leather and suede, and a key piece was an oversized tuxedo jacket with a back panel completely filled in with organza.

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