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In his notes, Lam said he lightened the sleeves and backs of heavier garments to help with cold-weather layering, and turned to more lightweight fabrics to “blur the idea of seasonal clothing.”

But he was most inspired by new textiles. As prices have risen for materials like cashmere and silk, he wrote, fabric mills responded by mixing in less expensive yarn and coming up with new treatments, like the chemical pressing of soft challis to give it more loft and texture. He called the resulting fabrics “very unique and modern.”

ADAM LIPPES

He found strength in numbers, mixing materials, prints and scale.

It was an homage to his customer, he explained in his notes, because “she appreciates the discovery in the everyday and reflects it in her personal style.”

Lippes flies a bit under the radar, but the recent acquisition of the Adam label by Kellwood _ while leaving Lippes in charge creatively _ could mean a bigger splash at some point.

The clothes, while not headline-grabbing red carpet numbers, are ready for more attention. He offered for the new season a nice mix of modern, wearable styles, including the opening look that paired a lace T-shirt with a cobalt buffalo-plaid skirt and the finale gold-embroidered dress that used a slight asymmetrical hemline to give the silhouette a little freedom and movement.

Outerwear, though, was really the highlight, especially blanket-style coats.

DKNY

You know what’s even better than a boyfriend’s blazer on a chilly New York afternoon?

The menswear-inspired cape by Donna Karan’s DKNY line. It’s the designer’s favorite from her fall collection.

The cape, with strong shoulders and a loose body, fit in nicely with outfits that alternated between neat and tailored, and sexy softness found in angora sweaters, faux furs and shearlings.

Tweeds were spiced up with a subtle metallic sheen.

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