Resort isn’t a season for fashion to take a break

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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

Diane von Furstenberg’s muse for the season is an “urban surfer, beach networker and snowboarding dreamer” _ all rolled into one multi-green, obi-wrapped, jumpsuit wearer.

“Holiday impulse _ light and impactful. A wrap jumper and featherweight dresses give off a collected and casual vibe,” von Furstenberg wrote in her notes. “Sportswear pieces with a twist _ knits adorned with neon zippers, windbreakers reinterpreted as silk vests, a nonchalant ladylike jacket with surf shorts or a sporty top with a gray melange ruffled skirt.”

Von Furstenberg spends most of her vacation time on her yacht, and there were influences from the worlds of sailing, especially the colorblocking, and scuba diving with flashes of color against black.

The overall silhouette wasn’t clingy, though, save a cute second-skin orange T-shirt dress. Most pieces were long and loose, with oversized blazers and Bermuda shorts.

Von Furstenberg, with creative director Yvan Mispelaere at her side, is one of the few New York-based designers who stage a runway show instead of a smaller presentation for resort. She used the opportunity to make a statement about a youthful, cool attitude; the look was very modern even if there was an underlying `80s-boombox sort of vibe.

J. MENDEL

Gilles Mendel had very little use for black in the newest collection _ and buyers, stylists and editors probably won’t miss it.

Mendel instead emphasized navy, poppy red, palm green, and shades of blush and sand, sometimes mixing the brights with a neutral on fresh colorblocked looks. One of the best was a raglan-sleeve dress with hand-frayed strips.

Mendel can’t resist a great fur piece, and a hot-pink fox shrug filled the bill. “It’s all you need for travel,” he said. “You can wear it over jeans or a gown.”

Gowns are Mendel’s other specialty, allowing him to show off his attention to the smallest detail. A blush gown with cap sleeves and delicate black embroidery was a style originally made for Taylor Swift.

Surprisingly, though, the strength of resort was the daywear, especially the slouchy trousers that he paired with a boatneck sweater with sheer stripes and a light-tan slim sheath with white leather trim.

“Having so much daywear is a new moment for me,” he said.

Incorporating multiple materials and textures was a nod to the landscape of rural Southern Utah, where Mendel recently visited.

“The sparkles are like the water, the hand-frayed edges like the rocks, the colors like the sunsets,” he said.

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