Jason Wu approached resort with a light, relaxed touch _ a T-shirt here, hoodie there _ but the luxurious, sophisticated look that is quickly becoming his signature is still the heart and soul of the collection. That T-shirt, for example, is made of lace and the hoodie of cashmere with latticelike details.
“This is dressed down, but through my eyes and sensibility,” Wu said.
Before he started sketching, Wu vacationed in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico. He took some of the cheerful vibe, rich history and intricate architecture home with him, he explained. “If I say I’m going to a museum today for inspiration, I won’t find one. It has to be an aha moment, and there were so many of those in San Juan.”
There’s nothing frilly about the clothes, although they’re feminine thanks to touches of lace, pops of salmon pink and a few Art Deco-inspired floral prints. He paired short shorts with conservative crewneck sweaters and added leather trim to a tweed dress. “It’s the language of modern sportswear: some boyish toughness and feminine details,” Wu said.
This season marks Wu’s debut into the swimwear market, anchored by a retro corset style, and he also incorporated some scuba-diving details, including bright-colored piping and stretchy black fabrics.
Tory Burch used the palette of Santa Fe, N.M., as the starting point for her resort-season collection, but those colors and patterns of the desert then worked their way through the designer’s East Coast point of view. She put those crafty florals into a pretty, long, wrap-style skirt, a flowy, delicately ruffled dress, and as a long-sleeve T-shirt that can be worn under a cream-colored tunic with oversized pockets, tan trim and her signature gold buttons.
There was color at every turn _ Burch basically shuns black, using navy blue, winter white and caramel as her neutrals _ with orange, red, turquoise and yellow used in big, bold strokes. One top had a splashy orange print on the bodice and back, and a blue version of the same art on the arms. The modeling mannequin also wore a vertical-stripe chenille skirt.
She updated the two-in-one trick that she first made famous with her lay-flat Dickie tops, this time combining a cardigan and sweater vest that had little bulk but bold in its graphic patterns.
Burch colored many denim pieces, too, including aqua skinny capris and red boot-leg jeans. However, she wisely left a denim anorak in a soft, broken-in blue.
For dressier occasions, she offered bow blouses and hammered silk separates, but it’s the holiday delivery _ which is shipped to stores in October versus November for resort _ that has glitzier metallics, sophisticated tweeds and pops of hot pink.
She covers both collections with a full range of complementary accessories, from rope-heel wedges to iPad cases, but, if you look closely, you’ll see she shrunk the logo on the bags and shoes that first made her a fashion force.
Associated Press National Writer Jocelyn Noveck contributed to this report.