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Fashion Week trends: Military looks and drama
Gisele Bundchen wore a military-inspired trenchcoat as part of an impressive group of top models on Alexander Wang’s runway, along with Shalom Harlow and Karolina Kurkova.
The clothes including wool sweaters and tweed jackets were more straightforward than Wang’s recent cool-girl downtown vibe. The slick, glossy fall collection also featured looks in leather and chiffon, with colors like black, oxblood red and an optic white he called “peroxide.”
Rachel Zoe has that old-school, rock-star girlfriend thing down. Zoe, best known as a celebrity stylist, flaunted the signature look that made her famous with a parade of faux fur coats, skinny-style tuxedos, maxi dresses and thigh-high boots that you imagine the young jet-set wearing as they shuttle from London to Los Angeles _ perhaps with a stop in New York. They’re for the type of woman who can pull off gaucho pants, which were indeed part of the lineup.
She said in her notes she drew inspiration “from the rock and roll glamour of London in the late `60s and such fashion icons as Marianne Faithfull and Mick Jagger.”
The second outfit to come down Jill Stuart’s runway, a gold leaf-embroidered T-shirt paired with black sailor pants, is headed straight to the designer’s closet.
She had it earmarked for her wardrobe even before she debuted her fall collection.
Some dresses had flippy, flouncy hemlines and others had a schoolgirl jumper silhouette, adding moments of levity to the catwalk, but the emphasis seemed to be on the sharply defined shoulders, high necklines and the occasion panel of suggestive sheer fabric.
Many of the prints and embroideries featured a floral motif, but there was nothing flowery about black roses on stark winter white backgrounds or prints that seemed to paint a picture of a garden in the dark. This collection showed a more serious side to Stuart.
With winged dresses and swirls of piping to evoke veins, Christian Siriano paid homage to Fay Wray and vampire bats in a stark, cavernous runway space worthy of the creatures of the night.
The fourth-season winner of “Project Runway” said he was inspired by old horror films, particularly “The Vampire Bat,” a black-and-white from 1933 starring Wray.
He used a near blood red, silvery gray, midnight black and shimmery gold brocade to set the scene, along with a bright white as a nod to Fay’s skin tone and wardrobe in the movie.
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