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Freedom in fashion startups for up and comers
Question of the Day
Dress lengths were often at the knee, perhaps to counteract the sexiness quotient of what appeared above.
And if you were looking for the plastic surgery references, you had them in the “wrapped bandage” dresses, and zippers, zippers, zippers _ down the front, down the sides, even under the breasts, as in a bone-colored dress that had the effect of a brassiere on top of a dress.
_ Suno is a brand that since its start has wanted to start a trend, but it has nothing to do with hemlines. Max Osterweis and design partner Erin Beatty had the loftier goal of teaching Kenyans a sustainable craft that would boost local economies when it sold its first outfits made of vintage fabrics in 2009.
The company has grown and so has its mission: It now makes clothes and embraces local techniques and expertise in India, Peru and New York. Because of its roots, prints have always been important to this collection, and fall had plenty, including those with stripes, florals, toile, fish and one of people holding hands.
There was a more-the-merrier message and sometimes multiple prints were worn at once.
But that’s for the runway. Peel back a few layers and there were a lot of wearable pieces that covered a fashion-forward woman’s needs from day to night. The people-print boatneck T-shirt dress looked great with a felted wool gray jacket, and so did a gold pleated top over a plain tan one with a pleated mini made of metallic wool.
The finale look was a statement in how far the designers have come since those first easy cotton looks. A model wore a wool military-style vest over black leather top _ with its peplum peeking out _ and a black skirt with gold beads that created a feather pattern.
_ Bibhu Mohapatra’s specialty is eveningwear, and he’ll often highlight the colors and luxurious fabrics associated with his Indian roots. This season, however, he found inspiration in imperial China, specifically a Chinese opera called “The White Haired Girl.”
In his notes, he explained the look revolved around “the protagonist’s strength, courage and passion for love.”
On the runway, Mohapatra expressed his interest through his prints _ red silk printed pants and a blue silk pencil skirt, for example. But he also couldn’t ignore the luxury customer he began courting as an assistant designer for Halston, and later at J. Mendel, where he eventually became design director.
With that background, working with alligator and pony fur, blue-dyed fox fur and leather seemed to come easily.
The breakout looks included a pleated chiffon ombre gown that went from black to beige, and a metallic silk dress covered in red ribbon embroidery. If he could get his ivory crepe gown with a plunging sheer panel and ivory embroidery on the red carpet on the right star, it could be his big break.
_ Since partnering last year on Nahm, Nary Manivong and Ally Hilfiger (yes, daughter of Tommy), the duo already has a signature item in the shirtdress. But how to put your own twist on such a basic? With double collars, dropped waists, contrast pleats and conversational prints in silhouettes that evoke the 1920s and `30s.
Manivong’s favorite print this season certainly was a conversation starter: It featured ancient Egyptians doing tasks of 2012 _ skateboarding, shopping, mowing the lawn and sipping tropical cocktails.
“The Nahm girl is growing up, as we are,” he said.
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