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“Mysterious, sexy and super urban” was how Costa described it just after the show. “The iconography for this is all super modern,” he said.

“The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” star Rooney Mara sat in the front row, and the clean, architectural and unadorned style that Costa has crafted as his Calvin Klein signature seems a perfect fit for her. She might be the one to pull off a leather look at the Academy Awards.

The colors, as usual here, were dark and stark, with the only bright moments coming from a few flashes of red and a salmon-colored dress made of a glazed tweed and tulle.

The mixing of fabrics that this crowd has gotten used to seeing over the past few days was done best on a dress that combined gray wool flannel and black shaved shearling. Another standout look was a black-leather, funnel-neck bodice and a winter-white moleskin skirt. Costa also sneaked in white leather panels in the folds of some black pleated skirts.

RALPH LAUREN

Ralph Lauren and refinement go together like England and tweed. “I have always loved the heritage and romance of England,” Lauren said in an email to The Associated Press.

To the music of “Downton Abbey,” a popular PBS show about a British manor in the World War I era, models began their parade in riding clothes _ plaid jodhpurs, houndstooth coats, Fair Isle sweaters and button-down shirts with contrasting white club collars _ and ended in slinky evening gowns with jeweled collars.

There was variety in the silhouettes, with trousers, for example ranging from wide-leg pleated pants to slim cuts, and there were tailored jackets long and short. One of the most striking looks was an animal-print shearling jacket. The new version of the pantsuit was a below-the-hip lean blazer with skinny pants in the same plaid pattern but different scales.

BILL BLASS

The late Bill Blass made his fashion house famous with chic sportswear worn by a very glamorous crowd, and Jeffrey Monteiro, who designs the collection now, continued that tradition of sport and glamour.

On the runway, tuxedo pants had a drawstring waist and a black-metallic gown had gold racing stripes down its long sleeves. Monteiro did an uptown version of the military trend, but his strong-shouldered coats had jeweled buttons. The clothes had a nice balance of youthful spirit with classic silhouettes.

There was also a bit of fur, including a fox collar paired with a simple sheer black jumpsuit and black evening pants, but compared to other catwalks that have been covered in mink and even raccoon, Monteiro had a light touch. He favored contrasting shiny satin to matte wool with pops of metallics, which made the collection still seem fresh after scores of runway shows.

L’WREN SCOTT

L’Wren Scott’s show had it all: Caviar, a chandeliered banquet hall, and A-list _ actually A-plus _ guests like Mick Jagger _ who happens to be the designer’s longtime boyfriend _ and Ellen Barkin.

As for the clothes, if you could get your mind off the rock icon in your midst, they were pretty luxurious, too, a mix of velvety or satiny gowns, bolero jackets and tea-length dresses, often with a vintage feel that matched the elegant surroundings.

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