Bibhu Mohapatra was working on costumes for an opera in upstate New York not long ago when he saw an insect that fascinated him: a luna moth.
That graceful insect inspired his Spring 2013 collection, in which he embellished both daywear and evening gowns alike with intricate cutouts, filigree-inspired prints, appliques and embroidery.
For daytime, a sleeveless white top had “drapes,” an almost winglike effect. It was paired with a steel-colored pencil skirt. An onyx leather dress was enhanced by intricate laser cutouts. A sea green and sand-colored suede dress with silk inserts was one of the most wearable daytime looks.
Some of the embellished gowns seemed a bit too busy. But a chartreuse and sand organza gown with a hand-pleated skirt made a wonderfully striking impression: the effect was that of a swirling breeze enveloping the model as she glided down the runway.
Vivienne Tam took on the Five Elements of Chinese cosmology in an East-meets-West spring collection of three-color geometric applique and hexagonal cut work that moved with her models.
Touches of black patent shined like metallic silver and gold printed on cotton denim for tops and wide-leg cropped pants. A trench was also done in the bright silver.
A geometric design of white, jade green and black stole the show, in loose cropped pants, a short organza column dress and another looser and waisted dress with black straps and matching cutouts at the chest.
The yang? Reverse pleats at the hip in a long column dress. Nobody but the very thin, and hipless, can wear those.
From the triangular cleavage cutouts to the plunging V-necklines, Narciso Rodriguez made his point with pointed shapes.
“It’s a very graphic collection. It’s kind of a signature at this point after so many years: the splicing, the color, especially black and white,” said Rodriguez before his show on Tuesday.
But while the designer known for modern and architectural silhouettes showed a handful of black and white looks, color dominated the minimalist collection with blood-orange sheath dresses, a loose-fitting fuchsia blazer and silky tops with intricate, emerald embroidery.
The easy-breezy collection ended with a stream of silky soft, paper thin, slip dresses colorblocked with geometric shades of pink.View Entire Story
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