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Friendships bubble up at NY Fashion Week
Their fall collection had a film-noir vibe that always does well for them on the modern Hollywood red carpet. This time, the inspiration was Alfred Hitchcock movies _ their favorite being “Vertigo.”
She also wears polished silhouettes like pencil skirts, fur stoles, halter-top gowns and tops with peplums very well, which fits the Badgley Mischka aesthetic perfectly.
This customer, though, also likes her shine. For fall, she gets a black-and-oyster lame dress, a metallic tweed suit and a jet-black silk and wool gown with a beaded back, cutout bodice and mermaid hemline.
All the pretty young things who wear Packham’s gowns on the red carpet are about to get a lesson in old-world glamour.
Think farther back than Hollywood’s golden age, farther back than Art Deco _ even farther back than the Edwardian era. Packham’s fall collection was based on noble 17-century Parisians, the women who would gather in their salons to discuss literature, politics and art.
“These women were educated, wealthy and influential _ they even liked politics. They were like early feminist groups,” joked Packham backstage.
It seems they got to do quite a bit of lounging, and that came through in some of Packham’s dressing gowns, robe-style silhouettes and powder-colored satins. They also knew how to ramp it up without ever being inappropriate. Packham played with that by showing some body-hugging looks that had high necks and keyhole slashes.
She also put a twist on the beaded gown, covering the whole thing in an extra layer of tulle, which added dimension and a little bit of mystery.
Burch has a confession she shared on the runwy: “I love bugs _ at least from a design standpoint.”
She decorated a chiffon button-down shirt with scarabs and used jeweled ones on a silk skirt. Embellished dragonflies were subtly placed on some of the shoes _ remember Burch’s roots are in accessories _ making them an instant, must-have status symbol.
But Burch didn’t go looking in dark corners for inspiration. She tried to envelop metallic fabrics, the textures of Gustav Klimt’s portraits and a free-spirited mood all into the overarching theme of Art Nouveau.
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