If you enjoy fresh Italian fare and are seeking a warm, cozy setting as the temperature dips, Domenicas is one of Annapolis’ best-kept secrets.
Owned and operated by lifelong Annapolitan Domenica Tripodi, the restaurant near the Annapolis Harbour Center has waiters who are well-informed and friendly.
For starters, oysters Fiorentina ($14) are broiled on the half shell and topped with spinach pancetta and a sambuca cream sauce. While Domenicas usually capitalizes on subtle flavors, this tasted like broiled oysters with cream drizzled on them without a hint of anise. The green from the spinach, looked nice. The pancetta added a hint of saltiness, but not enough flavor to compensate for everything else. The oysters were plump and flavorful; however, there were only four. With oysters in season, a plate of six would have been more appropriate, especially for the price.
Speaking of saving a couple of bucks, the prixe-fixe sheet is worth a look.
Selections from the three-course dinner menu ($33) included a starter of pumpkin ravioli served with a Gorgonzola cream sauce; grilled duck breast topped with an orange and honey demi-glaze; and a choice of a homemade dessert.
The ravioli offered a perfect contrast with the slightly sweet pumpkin filling and the gentle tang of the Gorganzola. This sounds like it could be a very heavy starter, but the sauce was not overly rich and the pumpkin was light and flavorful. This could make a great meal itself.
The duck breast was sliced quite thin, and was cooked to perfection, the meat moist, tender and flavorful. The orange glaze was a surprise, however. While orange sauces tend to be thick and overly sweet, this was light and not sugary. It really complemented the duck rather than covering it. Garlic mashed potatoes and a vegetable melange accompanied the main course.
Besides the duck, there was a seared tuna served with tarragon-mustard sauce, accompanied by grilled polenta and vegetable; or penne pasta sauteed with diced imported prosciutto and onions in a marinara sauce.
There are a half-dozen entree pasta plates to choose from. In linguine Annapolitan, sea scallops, jumbo shrimp and crab are sauteed with olive oil, garlic, white wine, crushed red pepper, basil and cherry tomatoes.
Papardelle pasta is served with a slow-roasted lamb ragu that includes red wine, diced celery, onions and carrots.
Osso buco ($32), served with papardelle pasta, is one of the six land and sea entrees. Slow cooking can offer some very intense flavors, but the appeal to this dish was the honesty of those flavors. Veal, celery and mushrooms are mild flavors, and it would be easy to cover them with a heavy hand with the rosemary or an intense red wine sauce. This osso buco was melt-in-your-mouth tender yet the flavors of veal and celery and carrots were prominent. There was a welcome lightness not usually associated with this dish. Papardelle was perfectly cooked; sturdy enough to stand up to the shanks but not weigh down the dish.
A Mediterranean roasted swordfish ($28) is a center-cut filet, marinated with olive oil and herbs, wrapped with pancetta, topped with a white wine-lemon garlic sauce that was served with a tomato, onion and eggplant mixture and two wedges of grilled polenta. The fish was a bit dry but the pancetta added flavor.
Save room for the desserts that are made on-site daily. Choices included tiramisu and creme brulee, but we opted for a more unusual dessert ravioli and chocolate creme brulee ($8).
The ravioli was heart-shaped, stuffed with a pear filling and lightly fried. The crust was nicely crisp but not overdone, with just the right amount of sugar. The real surprise was the pear filling, not over-spiced so it showcased the fruit’s sweet, subtle flavor.
Chocolate creme brulee was like a rich, very creamy chocolate pudding with a luscious crunchy crust on top.
An extensive wine list covers all corners of the world.
RESTAURANT: Domenicas, 2444 Solomons Island Road, Annapolis, 410/266-7595; www.domenicasannapolis.com
HOURS: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday
PRICES: Soups and salads $7 to $9; appetizers $12 to $14; pasta entrees $19 to $28; other entrees $24 to $32; desserts $8
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards
PARKING: On-site
ACCESS: Wheelchair accessible
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