Today’s recipe is for a very green, Mexican-style variation on what we have come to know as gazpacho.
The original Andalusian gazpacho, perhaps surprisingly, contained no tomatoes at all. Rather, it was a concoction of stale bread and garlic, softened with olive oil and vinegar. Tomatoes got added later, after they were discovered in the New World and introduced to Europe.
My new version features avocado, summer vegetables and herbs, and green tomatoes — which in this era of heirlooms can either mean underripe (the older association) or bona fide green-green tomatoes, that remain a cool, pure verdant hue even at their ready peak. You can make this all summer long, with a tart result earlier in the season, and a sweeter bowlful as August and September roll around, bringing with them the riper green tomato options.
If your perfect avocado is on the firmer side, it’s nice to leave the soup partially chunky. If the avocado is soft, go ahead and puree the entire batch. Serve this soup very cold, as the first course — or as a salsa alongside — for a light fish dinner, or on its own for lunch.
This soup will keep for several days if kept in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator.
Avocado and green tomato gazpacho
3 medium-sized (3-inch diameter) green tomatoes, cored and diced
1 small (or half a medium) orange or yellow bell pepper, cored and minced
1 medium-sized (7-inch) cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
A handful of flat-leaf parsley
A handful of cilantro
1 medium-sized ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and diced
1 medium clove garlic, minced or pressed
½ teaspoon salt (or more, to taste)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar or light-colored honey
1 cup cold water
Black pepper and cayenne to taste
Up to 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice (to taste)
Tortilla chips for the top (optional)
Combine everything in a large bowl and stir to mix well.
Using an immersion blender or a regular stand blender, puree all or part of the soup, as desired. Transfer to a container with a lid, cover tightly and chill until very cold. Serve cold — plain or topped with tortilla chips. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Mollie Katzen is the author of “Moosewood Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press). To contact her, go to www.molliekatzen.com.
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